Dien Bien Phu overview

Posted by editor on 2:46 am in Blog | Comments Off on Dien Bien Phu overview

Introduction

Dien Bien Phu is famous as a battlefield that was truly decisive. The French colonial forces were roundly defeated at the hands of the Viet Minh on 7 May 1954 and the days of their Indochina Empire were finally numbered.

Like Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, Dien Bien Phu now enjoys the prestigious status of provincial city, although it is not quite in the same league. Set in one of the most remote parts of Vietnam, the town is 34km from the Laos border in the flat, heart-shaped Muong Thanh Valley, surrounded by steep, heavily forested hills. The size and look of the city is surprising considering the remote location, especially if you managed to survive getting here overland.

History is the main attraction in Dien Bien Phu and the scenery is more stunning on the journey to or from Dien Bien Phu than around the town itself. Not surprisingly, the majority of travelers who come here now are French – Dien Bien Phu seems to hold the same sort of fascination for them as the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) does for Americans.

For a long time Dien Bien Phu is also a point of cultural and economic exchange between people in the border area of Vietnam, Laos and China, it was also an area of power dispute between land lords.

The area is inhabited by Montagnards, most notably the Thai and H’mong. The government has been encouraging ethnic Vietnamese to settle in the region. So visiting Dien Bien Phu, travelers not only visit the historical battlefield, but also have something in mind about the life of local people here.

How to get there

The overland trip to Dien Bien Phu can be more intriguing than the actual battlefield sites for which the town is so celebrated. Of course, you miss out on this if you fly.

Land

Bus

The bus station is on Highway 12, at the corner of Tran Dang Ninh. There is a direct bus service that runs from Hanoi to Dien Bien Phu (14 hours) leaving at 6am and 8am.

Buses to Muong Lay (three hours) leave in the morning. Daily buses to Son La (four hours) start at 4.30am, but for normal people who like to get up at normal times there are regular departures until noon.

Although the bus is cheap, it’s not really much fun. Buses are so packed that the only scenery you get to admire is the armpit of the person sitting next to you. If overloaded vehicles, bad roads and bad brakes worry you, definitely fly or travel overland by 4WD or motorbike.

Car & motorbike

The 470km drive from Hanoi to Dien Bien Phu on Highway 6 and 42 takes at least 12 hours (if you’re lucky). Conceivably it could be done in a single direct journey, but almost everyone stays overnight in Son La. Speaking from experience; it’s no picnic hanging on to the hairpins on a motorbike in the dark!

Air

Vietnam Airlines (824 948; fax 825 536; 7.30-11.30am & 1.30-4.30pm) operates daily flights between Dien Bien Phu and Hanoi. The office is just before the airport, about 1.5km from the town centre, along the road to Muong Lay.

What to see

Dien Bien Phu Vestiges

Command bunker of French General De Castries

Lying in the heart of the entrenched camp of Dien Bien Phu, Command bunker of General De Castries is kept intact the original shape, dimension, structure and arrangement of the bunker. In Dien Bien Phu entrenched camp; the command bunker was the place where Vietnamese troops fought bravely during fifty four days and nights to get inside. With twenty meters in length and eight meters width, the bunker consists of 4 compartments, which served as both working offices and resident places. Travelers come here now can still find the iron vaults and sandbags on the top of the bunker.

Muong Thanh Airfield

Muong Thanh Airfield used to be served as the stronghold 206 and the central airport of the entrenched camp of Dien Bien Phu in 1954. Presently, the name “Muong Thanh” has been changed into Dien Bien Airfield. This is one of the destinations in the flight system of the Vietnam Civil Aviation. Tourists traveling to Dien Bien by air will land at this airport.

Hill A1

Hill A1 is situated in Muong Thanh ward in Dien Bien Phu City. It possesses three defense lines. One of them which stretched from the Cay Da blockhouse and protected the way to the hilltop has currently been the main road leading to the top of Hill A1. Hill A1 played an important role in controlling the whole battle of Dien Bien Phu. Tourists can easily realize a hole atop Hill A1 – which resulted from the pressure of an explosion in Dien Bien Phu Battle. This hole has become one of the most tourists’ attractions.

Besides Hill A1, from afar tourists can easily recognize the names of some hills named Doc Lap, Him Lam, Hill C, D and E. They are now well-preserved by Dien Bien People and Authorities.

The cemeteries in Hill A1 and Doc Lap Hill

When traveling to Dien Bien, almost French veterans who used to take part in the entrenched camp of Dien Bien Phu will spend time visiting the cemeteries in Hill A1 and Doc Lap Hill. This is the resting place of Vietnamese soldiers who heroically sacrificed in fighting against the French troops in 1954. It is estimated that there are 644 tombs at Hill A1 and 2432 tombs at Doc Lap Hill.

The Command post of the Vietnamese soldiers

It is located in a primitive forest in Muong Phang Commune. Tourists visiting here have chance to find the hut where Vietnamese General Vo Nguyen Giap worked and other huts for information and military operation discussion.

Here are the historical sites of the fifty six days and nights fierce battle of Vietnamese troops and Vietnamese people, which results in the glorious victory of Dien Bien Phu in 1954.

Pa Khoang Lake

Pa Khoang Lake is located in Muong Phang commune, Dien Bien district. The position of this lake is very convenient for a visit, near the road 279, about 20 km from Dien Bien Phu city, linking Dien Bien Phu city with Muong Phang historical and cultural forest where the relics of the Command of Dien Bien Phu compaign remains.

The Pa Khoang tourist complex covers an area of 2,400 ha, in which 1,320 ha of forest area, 300 ha of farming land, 150 ha of basic construction, and 600 ha of water surface area (the lake contains about 37.2 million m3 of water). This area possesses several favorable conditions for tourist activities such as diverse plants, various topography, good weather, etc. There are a number of animals and various kinds of orchids in the forest around the lake. There are also many species of fish and floating plants in the lake (about 65 kinds of floating plants, 14 species of floating animals and 6 species living at the bottom of the lake).

Pa Khoang Lake is lying in the centre of ranges of mountains, in the place of beautiful natural sceneries. In spring, mist covers ranges of mountains and small houses which create a mysterious picture. In summer, the weather is quite nice with blows of cool wind. Visitors coming here can enjoy the natural beauty in the distance or row a boat for sight-seeing. All makes a peaceful and romantic picture attractive to visitors.

In the lake region, there are the villages of Thai and Kho mu ethnic groups who still follow traditional customs and habits of ethnic groups in the North West of Vietnam. This is also an interesting human tourist potential, waiting for tourists to explore.

Pha Din Pass

To reach Dien Bien province from Hanoi, travelers have to pass Pha Din pass that is about 32 km long. In the local language, Pha Din means heaven and earth. According to a local legend, Pha Din Pass is the place where the sky meets the earth, so it is considered as the frontier between Heaven and Earth. Long time ago, there existed a deputation on the border between Lai Chau and Son La provinces. It was solved by a horse-racing. Two horses started from each side of the pass and the border was determined at the point where they met each other. The horse of Lai Chau province ran faster than the one of Son La province so the pass belonging to Lai Chau is longer than that of Son La.

At the height of above 1,000m, the pass is full of twists and turns, one side is an upright cliff and the other is a deep gulf. So, climbing and descending the slopes with their many bends and deep gorges, amid such magnificent scenery, is an unforgettable trip in Vietnam.

Pa Thom Cave

Pa Thom cave is in Pa Thom commune, in the West of Dien Bien district, bordering with Laos. The local people call it “Tham Nang Lai” that means the cave of fairies of flowers.

Accompanied by the myth about love and loyalty, the spectacular Pa Thom Cave is not only a natural wonder but also a holy place in the belief of Dien Bien people. Located up high on the side of a mountain, the cave has a 12 m high, 17 m wide arch-shaped mouth. At the middle of this special entrance stands a giant stone resembling the head of an elephant. Along the cave of 350m length locates 9 arches of different sizes. Impressive stones, stalactites, and stalagmites are ubiquitous. Right after entering the came, the tourists can see a block of three huge stones that looks like a giant snake. Stalactites and stalagmites come in a variety of sizes and shapes, sparkling mysteriously under the candle light. Pa Thom cave is extremely spacious. Decorated with majestic block of stones, the ceilings look like that of a luxurious palace. The beautiful curtains made of soft-looking, colorful stalactites hang themselves beside the silver waterfalls inside the cave.

In addition to its magnificent look, the local tales about makes Pa Thom Cave a romantic and attractive destination for travelers from everywhere. When you have a chance to visit Dien Bien, never forget to pay a visit to this wonderful natural site. Surely, it will never let you down.

Festivals and Events

Traditional festival

Traditional festivals are cultural activities reflecting the spiritual life of each ethnic group. Therefore, these festivals prove very attractive to many tourists. Through festivals, the visitors can learn more about the customs and habits of the local people here.

There are 18 ethnic groups living in Dien Bien province where the cultural traditions are displayed through festivals.

Dien Bien Phuvictory Anniversary

Dien Bien Phu Victory Anniversary which is held on May 7 annually is the most important festival of Dien Bien province. This festival bears not only national but also international meaning.

On this day, thousands of visitors come here to view a glorious place, to think and learn more about the national history.

The Dien Bien Phu victory Anniversary begins with a meeting to review famous pages of national history. Following the meeting are the activities that make the atmosphere of festival more jubilant and exciting

Ban Phu Citadel Festival

Ban Phu Citadel Festival is a big festival held every year to worship the great devotion of the leader Hoang Cong Chat and his soldiers in the resistance war to protect Muong Then – Dien Bien from the occupation of Phe enemy.

The festival is held from the 24 to 25 of the second month of lunar year in Ban Phu. At the festival, there are such activities as rituals, local made food and drinks, singing, dancing, etc.

Bamboo Shoot Sprouting Festival

Bam Boo Shoot Sprouting is a popular festival of many ethnic groups such as Mang, Khang, Xinh Mun, La Hu, Kho Mu, Phu La, etc. in the North of Vietnam.

The festival is held at the beginning of the rainy season when bamboo shoots sprout. According to the local’s concept, it is the time to start the farming in a year. It is held with a hope to get bumper crops and express their gratefulness to God.

Cong ethnic group’s village worshiping festival

In the third month of lunar year, all villages in Dien Bien hold the worshipping rituals before the seed-sowing season. On this day, the local people set gates and avoid signs on the way to villages so that nobody is allowed to come in. All families do the worshipping rituals on their farming land. They pray for bumper crops and nothing can do harm to their crop.

La Hu ethnic group’s new rice festival

La Hu ethnics often do new rice ritual in the tenth or the eleventh month of the lunar year. The special thing in this festival is that La Hu ethnics do not pick up vegetables or cut down trees and plants for 3 days in order to pray for them growing well all the year round. In addition, La Hu ethnics perform their folk dance with drums.

Han Khuong festival

Han Khuong is a traditionally cultural activity of Thai ethnic group. The festival is usually held right after harvesting the crops in the eleventh month of the lunar year.

The festival is often held on a large plot of land in the village. The young boys and girls set up a wooden floor, about 1.5 meter high, surrounded by a piece of wide-meshed bamboo lattice, and an entrance. They sing and talk together until midnight. The next day, they continue enjoying themselves.

Han Khuong festival held by the girls is a party to court their partners before getting married. So, Han Khuong has left numbers of lovely experiences and remarks of a period of time of ebullient youth.

Bauhinia flower festival

In the second month of every lunar year, when it is warmer and bauhinia flowers start to blossom so many that all mountains and forests in the North West is covered with white, Thai ethnics begin bauhinia flowers festival.

On this occasion, Thai ethnic girls and boys have opportunity to meet and talk together. The boy picks up the most beautiful flowers to put in his love’s hair. The girl is so shy and hides herself under the bauhinia branches.

The festival of bauhinia flower is not only a festival of love and happiness but also an occasion for Thai ethnic people to pray for their crops, to express their respect to their grandparents and parents. It is a chance for young people to get closer to each other through pieces of music

Where to eat

The Him Lam Plaza on Tran Dang Ninh where it meets the river contains a supermarket, a market area with restaurants in the back, and a bar near the river.

There are various cheap to moderately priced restaurants on Nguyen Chi Thanh (labeled Muong Thanh on giant sign where the street ends on both sides).

Avoid eateries next to the bus station, prices are high (e.g. bowl of pho for 50.000vnd).

There is however a nicer cafe with more reasonable prices out of sight of the bus station. Walk out of the bus station and cross the road and turn right then at the T-Junction go left and it’s the first cafe you see. Prices should be better there and the views are quite nice of the nearby mountains.

Where to stay

Cheap, flophouse like accommodation can be found across from the bus station at Nguyen Huu Tho/QL12 and Tran Dang Ninh for 100,000 – 200,000 dong. Most of these places have a mix of shared and private bathrooms, cheap restaurants underneath and enough holes for air and bugs to flow through. Not much English is spoken.

A half step up are the guesthouses and hotels on Tran Dang Ninh and the river intersection a few blocks away from the bus station for 200,000 – 250,000 dong. Air conditioning is more common but wifi is still a mixed bag.

There are a variety of hotels and guesthouses on Duong 7-5/AH13/QL 279 near the interaction with A1 hill at Hoang Van Thai and a bit north of that.

Avoid Nha Nghi Thu Diu, opposite the bus station. Bed bugs, no hot water as promised and really rude people.

Him Lan resort is 5km from the center. The place is a typical big vietnamese resort. Has got a swimming pool(closed in winter), restaurant, hot water in the room, lake and nice views.Internet connection isn’t stable.Prices are from 650.000 to 850.000.

How to get out

To Laos

The bus from Dien Bien Phu to Muang Khua in Laos leaves daily at 05:30 and costs 115,000 dong (June 2013), or you can go directly to Udomxai for 235,000 dong. Be sure to get there even earlier and claim a seat although you will likely be sharing your seat with a local, or sitting on a pile of goods piled in the aisle. As a rule, the “bus is never full.” Bring water and snacks. It takes about 2 hours to reach the Tay Trang Vietnam exit customs, which is fairly straightforward. From the Vietnamese border station it is another 6km to the Laos border checkpoint. Visa-on-arrival is available and costs $30-40 depending on nationality. You can pay in Dong, Kip, or US Dollars. One passport photo is required, but if you don’t have one they’ll take a picture for you for $4. Everyone pays 5,000 kip for Visa fee, then another 5,000 kip for stamp, to cross the border, plus a 2,000 kip ‘H1N1’ test (they take your temperature).(Update 2013 June: simply walk away from the guy. The test is a scam.) So 10,000 kip, plus your visa charge.

(Update Feb 2013) The road is now paved and good quality all the way to Muang Khua and should only take around 2 hours from the Laos-Vietnam border. It arrives at the main junction in the centre of town and there is no longer any need to get a ferry. You can take a tuk-tuk to the bus station (5,000kip) and then connect to Odoumxai for 35,000kip, 2.5 hours. You should consider taking the boat ride down the fairly narrow and very scenic Nam Ou River towards Luang Prabang, stopping overnight at Nong Khiaw where road travel is possible – departures depend on whether there are enough people interested in going – ask ahead at the boat ramp.

Things to do in Da Lat

Posted by editor on 3:06 am in Blog | Comments Off on Things to do in Da Lat

Introduction

Dalat, also Da Lat (Đà Lạt), located in the South Central Highlands of Vietnam, was originally the playground of the French who built villas in the clear mountain air to escape the heat and humidity of the coast and of Saigon, officially known as Ho Chi Minh City.

Dalat looks like a cross between Vietnam and the French Alps. Many of its hotels and houses are built in a European/ French style. The city spreads across a series of pine-covered hills, with a small lake in the center and surrounded by a man made lake and higher peaks, making for some lovely scenery quite different from the rest of Vietnam. Temperatures are pleasantly warm by day, and quite cool at night, down to perhaps 10 degrees Celsius.

Dalat is very much a niche tourism town, open to some of the more adventurous travelers, or the Indochine romantics, seeking world class golf. There is a steady flow during some parts of the year of tourist from all walks of life and places, small hotels, cafe’s lining its streets and plenty of small shops offering anything from orchids to knitwear. The vast majority of visitors are Vietnamese, although plenty of Americans and Europeans find their way, in their search for this utopian Dalat, a Life style resort destination, either on short package tours, or research and soul searching, drawn by the scenery, vivid blue skies, fresh air, flower-filled parks, and local culinary treats. Dalat is a favorite destination for company weekend outings, family get-aways, and honeymooners. Most guidebooks for overseas visitors describe Dalat as a tourist town with a colorful approach to tourism. Dalat is a very pleasant stop, on a north-south tour (or vice versa), or a pleasant outing from the heat of Saigon. For overseas visitors, it offers mostly a chance to cool down, observe the Vietnamese at play, view a bit of the French legacy, the Indochine legend and its momentous glories and the architecture untouched by the Vietnam conflict left behind,a unique place to enjoy the atmosphere of a unique country and its people.

Dalat is also surrounded by some of the best mountain biking, hiking and canyoning opportunities in Vietnam, with hills of coffee and tea plantations, which evoke images of the colonial hill stations of the north of India.

Dalat’s high altitude (1500-2000 m) and fertile landscape make it one of Vietnam’s premier agricultural areas, producing varieties of fruits, vegetables, tea, coffee and flowers that don’t grow in the lowlands. In markets as far north as Hanoi and Hai Phong, vegetable and flower vendors will tout their “made in Dalat” produce.

How to get there

Most local and foreign travellers arrive in by bus, including those travelling on the famous Sinh Cafe Hanoi-HCMC open-tour bus. Mai Linh Express and Phuong Trang run several daily services to Dalat from Nha Trang and HCMC. From Nha Trang, the bus ride is about 5 hours, with the obligatory stop at a dilapidated Cham temple/tourist site. Within the last year or so, a new road from Nha Trang has cut the travel time to 3-4 hours, including a 30-minute breakfast/WC stop about one hour out of Nha Trang. From Ho Chi Minh City, the bus ride is about 7 hours (9 hours if there is bad traffic leaving Saigon). If coming from Mui Ne, be careful as the road is terribly rough most of the way, so try to book a large bus or at least a seat towards the front.

For western visitors it may be best to book a ticket on a bus without a television. The entertainment offered could be loud and unappealing if you prefer sleeping before arriving at their next destination.

There are various travel agencies in the town that can book buses to all parts of the country.

Alternatively, catch a local bus at HCMC, Bien Hoa, Phan Rang, Nha Trang or Buon Ma Thuot.

The airport, is a mere 30 km south of the city linked by a modern and yet scenic two lane highway and offers daily Vietnam Airlines/Air Mekong flights to and from HCMC, Danang and Hanoi. Dalat is being serviced by two airlines at this present time, being Vietnam Airlines and Air Mekong, a new private carrier with additional flights from and to Hanoi, Saigon and other destinations. Checking the timetables and prices being offered is well worth while since competition offers better rates with advanced bookings, Air Mekong like Vietnam Airlines is linked into overseas reservation and ticket issuing through the GDS and airline systems.

As of January 2013 there are shuttle buses available just outside the airport building sold by English-speaking touts for 40,000. The same ticket is sold from the counter inside for 80,000. Beware when catching the shuttle bus that the driver might try to drop you off elsewhere in Dalat rather than your hotel – make sure to specify which hotel you want to be dropped off at to the tout and see that this is communicated to the driver. Be firm but polite with the driver if he tries to drop you off elsewhere, unless you don’t mind walking!

Fixed prices taxis are advertised for 200,000 also from the counter inside (as of January 2013) – this seems to be the cheapest rate you’ll get a private taxi for. Some hotels offer special arrangements with taxi companies to ferry hotel-stayers to and fro the airport also around 200,000 VND.

BEWARE: Hotels can try to rip you off by asking for anything between 300,000 to 400,000 for Airport transfer. Be adamant on 200,000. You can try calling 0633835583 – they have a fix price so 200,000. Malinh asked for 300,000 for airport. Don’t even think of going by meter: It comes to around 577,000 by meter (distance: around 35km)

Update: As of May 2013, taxis are asking 250,000 to the city and this price is even printed on almost all the taxis at the airport. For trips to and from the airport, always agree on the fare before you get into the taxi. My family took two taxis from the same hotel and at the same time but upon arrival at the airport, one driver insisted on 300,000 and the other demanded the metered fare! Do not fall into this trap of taxi drivers asking for a higher fare when you arrive at your destination. If in doubt, get a ticket at the taxi booth for 250,000 inside the airport terminal. If you happen to stay outside Dalat City, it is good to know where your destination is relative to the city from the airport. One lady who appeared to be helping us with translation claimed that the distance to our hotel (Dalat Edensee Resort) was about 10km further and jacked up the fare to 300,000 (the hotel is closer to the airport than the city itself!). Obviously both were in cahoots but upon being exposed, she claimed that they were both rivals!

How to get around

Depending on where you stay, you can walk to most parts around town. You can catch a Xe Om (motorbike taxi) from most corners, so if you’re going somewhere farther out of town, you have a fast way to get there. Taxis are also abundant and reasonable in price, yet watch the meter, as meter fixing is a common practice from north to the south.

There is a local bus which passes near most of the main tourist sites. Heading south you can catch it at the bus shelter by the lake. Otherwise, the bus hub can be found on Khu Hoa Binh street, just up from the market. The last bus each day is at 5PM.

There are many places around town to rent a bicycle, tandem or motorbike. Please consider carefully before you move to rent a motorbike, as according to the Vietnamese law you must be in the possession of a valid Vietnamese drivers license, to be able to operate and drive a motor vehicle in the country, failure to have one, cancels any insurance that the bike might come with and makes you liable according to the law for any damages and remember in South East Asia, you are always liable, as you are always guilty, as you are presumed to have more money then the other party. Hence you will have to pay for damages to the bike and its full value, damages to other people and their property, as well you might have just ruined your own vacation time, due to injury and of course hefty payments to third parties.

What to see

Packaged day tours are easily purchased round town, which will take you to a variety of sites, it is recommended to use one of the three licensed operator, as they are registered with the tourism department, offer insurance coverage and in the event of any disputes, or grievances have to respond to the claims against them. Fair pricing policies apply to them, which might not be the case with some of more shady characters in the business, hence ask for the government registered license and receipt with a red invoice when contracting any services. (An indignity not uncommon in the developing world — visitors from outside Vietnam are often required to pay double what Vietnamese pay for admission to many places when visiting individually, hence going through licensed operators will avoid some of those challenges.

The tourist agency, “Trung Tam Dich Vu Lu Hanh Da Lat,” located on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, is not recommended due to their unethical practice of duping tourists by reserving tickets for Sinh Cafe Open Tour bus for $12 (240,000 dong), then contacting the tourist’s hotel to change the ticket for a later Phuong Trang bus, for 120,000 dong. The tickets will have extra zeros whited-out to make it look like $12.

Tours typically include a handful of stops like the following:

The three palaces and summer home of the colonial-era, last emperor of Vietnam Bao Dai, which is of great interest once you visit these three heritage sites, named as Palace I., II and III, the Dalat Palace Hotel being one of them, with its adjacent Dalat Du Park Hotel, all from the 1922’s, together with the Dalat Palace Golf Club, which was built in 1922, to give his majesty the opportunity to practice his golf skills picked up during his years of study in France. The golf course is a awesome site, whether you enjoy the swinging and putting or not, as the coffee shop at the golf course has some wholesome meals of Asian and European making, with great view of the deep green fairways and classy environment. The Palace I is located on the same street when you walk to the Crazy House. It is about 15-30 minutes walk depending on your pace (1.1 km. from Tran Phu, 47 meters elevation gain). Palace II is located on Tran Hung Dao, not far from the Xuan Huong Lake (next to Yersin Park).

A striking, not-quite-finished fantasy house designed by the daughter of an independence war hero. Known as the Crazy House. Worth a visit if you are interested in architecture, or like Dr. Seuss-style surroundings. It is located on Huỳnh Thúc Kháng, Phường 4, Da Lat; which is about 0.3 km off Duy Tan Street. Admission 40,000 dong.

A set of flower gardens centered around a re-constructed traditional Vietnamese teakwood house. The Flower Garden is located on the northwestern end of the Xuan Huong Lake, so if you go for a stroll around the lake, it can be visited as a stop. Admission 10,000 dong.

A ride in a Land Rover up to the top of Langbiang mountain, with spectacular views of Dalat and the surrounding mountains and valleys.

Other sites of interest:

Ho Xuan Huong (Hồ Xuân Hương) aka Xuan Huong lake, center of town. Open daily, all hours. No admission fee but rental fees vary if you want to boat. Approximately 5km in diameter, this lake was made after two dams on the Camly river were destroyed during a storm in the 1930s. Now, Xuan Huong lake is one of the main draws of Da Lat, and you can see honeymooners and locals strolling its banks. Many nice hotels have a view of the lake. The lake was drained in 2010, but is now filled again.

Da Lat market filled with local specialties: strawberry jam, fruits conserves, avocado, artichoke.

Nha Tho Domaine de Marie:(on Ngo Quyen, 1 km from where Hai Thuong and Ba Trang Hai (3 Trang Hai) meets.) A pink church on top of a hill, with a store selling various dried fruits and snacks from the local orchards run by the nuns of the monastery.

Da Lat train station: take the steam train through the 7km historical line to Trai Mat, from there you can visit the Linh Phuong pagoda. Price for train ride is 124,000d return (January 2013, price for foreigners).

Ho Suoi Vang (Golden Spring lake). Rather unspoiled scenery.

Thien Vien Truc Lam Monastery, at the top of where the cable car drops you off (single 50,000 dong, return 70,000) The monastery (admission free, donations accepted) has a magnificent view over the dams below and its gardens are full of landscaped shrubs in animal form. Extremely peaceful – a great place to relax and soak in the tranquility. People who do not want to complete the round trip could opt for a 4.1 km walk back to Tran Phu. Be sure to bring a map. On the walk back you can go down to Tuyen Lam lake (see below), visit nearby Datanla waterfall and take the bus back to town.

Lang Biang mountain. The 1,900m peak is reachable by a steep paved path, ideal for a 3 hours hike, or you can ride in a jeep for 40,000d. Also visit the minorities village under the mountain foot.

Thung Lung Tinh Yeu (Thung Lũng Tình Yêu) aka Valley of Love, Phu Duong Thien Vong str. Open daily until 5PM. Admission fee= 20.000 VND. About 5km outside of town, the Valley of Love is common stop on Dalat tours and is very popular with honeymooners. The Valley of Love is also a great spot for canyoning. See contact info below for canyoning operators.

Lake of Sorrow or Lake of Sighs, 5km northeast of town on Ho Xuan Huong road. Open daily until 5PM. Admission fee= 10.000 VND.The Lake of Sorrow is another common destination in Dalat. The Lake of Sorrow is so-named because of a tale of two lovers, one who committed suicide after the other was called up to serve in the army.

Tuyen Lam Lake (Hồ Tuyền Lâm), 5km south of town on highway 20. Its clean green waters flow from the beautiful Tia Spring and from the Da Tam River, which flows down from Voi mountain. Its waters stretch over an immense 350 hectares and because of its various sources, Tuyen Lam is known as the lake where rivers, springs and forests meet. The lake was built in the 80s. It is one of the largest and most beautiful lakes in town. The other side of the lake is the Voi mountain which is a good place for hiking.

Prenn Falls, At the foot of Prenn Pass, about 10km outside of town. Open daily until 5PM. Admission fee= 20.000 VND A very common stop on a typical Dalat tour, Prenn Falls is quite beautiful but is a lot more fun when you’re hiking it than just taking pictures of it.

Pongour Falls, 30km south of town on highway 20, it’s one of the largest and widest waterfalls in Vietnam and during the wet season is a magnificent sight. Although a dam built nearby has reduced the water flow recently.

What to do

Dalat Easy Rider

(email: dalateasyrider@yahoo.com, website: vietnam-motocycle-easyriders.com , Address: 61- 3 thang 2 street, Da Lat, Vietnam) is a great and inexpensive way for non-motorcyclists to tour the Central Highlands, giving you access to places you would otherwise never know about. They speak English quite well, and are from the local villages, and know everyone and everything in and around the place. Be warned that there are many Easyrider copycats around the town. You can find out more information about them from their website and can contact Mr. Quan at the phone number:0903640643 .

Dalat.travel Dalat Travel , 11/6 La Son Phu Tu street, telephone +84 633 504 175, cell 0912 07 68 07.

Dalat.travel offers daily trips depart from Dalat such as trekking, cycling, canyoning, and also extended trips to Mui Ne, Nha Trang, Hoi An, Halong Bay, Sapa, Mekong Delta.

Phat Tire Ventures, 109 Nguyen Van Troi , phone – 063-829422, fax – 063-820331, cell – 0918438781, info@phattireventures.com

Trips run daily with extended trips outside Dalat also available. Founded by Brian and Kim Vierra, Phat Tire Ventures combines American technology and safety methods with local knowledge of trails and communities to deliver an outstanding adventure experience. Hike the highlands, making your way across sketchy bridges, to meet hill tribes that barely experience foreigners. Or, canyon the Valley of Love and enjoy the stunned faces of honeymooners as you pace with climbing gear over your shoulder. And, best of all, bike through coffee farms to Bao Dai palace or to the Bamboo forest and enjoy stunning views of Dalat’s many lakes and rivers.

Dalat Trip, Add: 1/17 Tran Nhan Tong Str, Tel: +84 63 3555768, fax: +84 63 3555769, cell: +84 908797699, contact@dalattrip.com . A lot of exciting Tours in Dalat such as Tour for Minorities Culture, Elephant Riding Tour, Dalat Countryside Tour, Exploring entire Dalat city.

Youth Action Travel Dalat , 45 Truong Cong Dinh, phone – 063-3510357, fax – 063-3554515, cell – 0919 124 137, email: youthactiontour@gmail.com. With over 15 years of experience in adventure tourism. Offering trekking, canyoning, rock climbing, abseiling, mountain biking, paragliding.

Vespa Vietnam Adventures. This departs from Ho Chi Minh City. Couple: $US 2300, Single: $US 1380. Or call: +84(0)90365206t8 (International caller drop the first zero number)

Saigon Riders or call +84 913 767 113. Tours start from Ho Chi Minh or Da Lat. Quality guides and safe drivers offering bespoke and off-the-shelf tours on the back of their motorbikes around Ho Chi Minh City and further afield in southern Vietnam. Tours range from a half day exploring the sights of the city to multi days excursions in and beyond. A special tour of Da Lat and surrounds includes 3 days of adventure and trekking, with an overnight stay in the jungle. Price: USD$499/person.

University of Dalat, 1 Phu Dong Thien Vuong Street. Students from the English Club welcome friends from around the world to join our meetings. [homestayindalat.wix.com/home] (+84 986 506160)

Dalat freelance guides they are freelancers who have worked for dalat tourist,sinhcafe,haphuong tourist, tm brother,…email: mrleedalat@gmail.com.

Mimosatravel , DILA limited Company,76 Bui Thi Xuan St – Da Lat City -Vietnam,Tel: (84.63).3500.511,Fax: (84.63).3521.690,[6] mimosatravel.info@gmail.com. With their professional and friendly staff, they take care of everything you need in a trip around Dalat and to central highland.(dalatcitytour,the elephant waterfall tour,tours by motobikes…)

Lak Lake is a nice stop on a bike-tour in the central Highlights. Staying 1 Night in Dalat i got told, that i will miss the most scenic part of the trip when I go from Dalat to the (anyway so overdeveloped) NHA TRANG and then Take the busy Road 26 to BUON MA THUOT. And he was right, its a beautiful ride down to the Elefant-Waterfall through Cafeplantations ect. and then up to Lak Lake over a mountain and then through sunny highlands with Rice-Fields. The Road is partly very bad though, but doable.

Shopping

Most visitors to Dalat are Vietnamese, and most of them leave loaded with stuff. What they like to take home is dried and candied fruits, strawberry preserves, coffee, green and artichoke tea, local wine, dried venison, orchids, strawberries, avocados, and other fresh produce. If you take any sort of organized tour, chances are you will be off-loaded for a half hour at a shop selling these items. Local treats are also for sale in abundance in the large central market located in the area around Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Le Dai Hanh. Part covered and part outdoor, the market has dozens of small stalls selling also fruits and vegetables, clothing, and a wide variety of other goods. There is a supermarket on the top floor selling necessities for travellers. Strolling around the market is a favorite evening activity, and every night it buzzes with thousands of sweater-clad visitors.

Dalat does not offer lot of high-end handicrafts of the sort favored by overseas tourists. Dalat is famous, however, for its beautifully crafted silk embroidered pictures, which can be purchased at a massive mark up from the many galleries around Dalat or at a fraction of the price from the central Dalat market.

Dalat also has an abundance of fruit, vegetables and flowers available for purchase if you plan to stay for a few days and want to liven up your hotel room or cook your own meals.

–Namsilk– About Us At our shop and on our site, you will find a fabulous, fashionable selection of clothing and accessories for every taste and any budget. We have clothes for every occasion, and we are here to help you find the perfect fit. Happy shopping! Location If you could have a chance to come to DaLat, Viet Nam, stop by and visit us-NamSilk at: 36&67 TruongCongDinh-Ward I-Dalat.My website

Email:namsilkdalat@gmail.com Enjoy your trips to Viet Nam and Have a pleasant time at DALAT.

Cappuchino Cafe

— Toms cafe A place do not forget to come here! TOMS Cafe is a wonderful cafe shop such as Espresso, Cappuchino, Latte. Futhermore we are the second cafe shop in Dalat city at this time. Please visit my website to get more info [9]

What to eat

Dalat has countless restaurants to serve the diverse visitors, from all walks of life and origins, with offerings ranging from Local Lamdong province, Dalat food, to central and southern Vietnamese dishes and a fair number of Western and French inspired eateries, bars and restaurants, serving every budget and aspirations.

Backpackers Tourists’ Cafe’ 61- 3 thang 2 Street, F 1, Dalat. TEL: 0903640643

It is an amazing place, good food and cheap price with very nice decoration. The staff speak good English and you can get more information for the area around Dalat.

Nhat Lien

17 Huynh Thuc Khang, P.4, Da Lat. TEL: 063 382 1126 (or +84 63 382 1126). EMAIL: otaki49@yahoo.com. Open until 9PM. Vegetarian restaurant. There are three vegetarian restaurants in Da Lat, and this is probably the best one. They serve primarily Vietnamese food, but the menu does have some English. The servers don’t speak much English but the owner does and he is happy to help you out. There are two dinning area, the older original cafe area and the newer classy section. They sometimes have live music. They are located on the same street as the Crazy House (see things to do above), just walk 5 min west of Crazy House until you see their big green sign and some statues out front. Quality food and service.

Art Cafe (Wine Bar/Fine Dining/Live Music)

76 Truong Cong Dinh Street (On the main tourist street in Da Lat), ☎ +84-63-355-5299 (info@embers-asia.com). The Art Café features Vietnamese and International dishes which are lovingly prepared from the freshest, carefully-selected, local ingredients available. Staying true to it’s name, the Art Café is also the center for local artistic events such as live music acts, group painting sessions, movie nights, team dining extravaganzas, etc. so be sure to check with the cafe to see what offerings are scheduled. And, as they say at the Art Café: Life is Art. Enjoy!

V Cafe

1/1 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel (84) (63) 352 0215 Open daily from 7:00 to 22:30. V Cafe is the home of great food and live music in Da Lat. Boasting a unique and fun east meets west atmosphere, excellent service, a large and diverse menu of international dishes, and regularly hosting the best live music in town. There is something for everybody at V Cafe.

Dalat (Central) Market / Chợ Đà Lạt, center of town. Open daily until early evening. Given its breadbasket status, Dalat’s Central Market place is the best place in town to eat fresh fruits and vegetables. Near the entrance, there is a lively and always busy vegetable restaurant that serves excellent soups. A tiny vegetarian food stall is in a corner of the second level.

Dalat Palace Golf Club

No.1 Phu Dong Thien Vuong Street, Dalat Tel: (+84 63) 3821 201 – Cafe, Pro Shop and Clubhouse, open daily from 6 a.m. until about 8PM. If you are craving quesadillas, tacos and haven’t had Mexican, Western Food in the months, you will find what you’re looking for at the Pro Shop. It’s little bit out of the way, but in Dalat everything is round the corner anyways, but the food, the chips with salsa and guacamole, sandwiches and burgers, are excellent. And, the beer is always cold.

Cafe de la Poste

No. 12 Tran Phu Street, Tel. (063)825 777, part of the Dalat Du Parc and Dalat Palace compound, French and Western Country Style cuisine, at affordable prices, outstanding service and open from 6 a.m. till 11 p.m., wide selection of traditional dishes and fast food favorites, cold beer and a pretty impressive wine list, besides their famous fresh Dalat fruit juices. Service is great,served by English speaking friendly staff.

Le Rabelais, French Fine Dining Restaurant, Dalat Palace Hotel

12, Tran Phu Street, one of the best fine dining experiences, besides fancy eateries in Hanoi or Saigon, receiving each year visitors just to experience a unique French ~ Vietnamese influenced fine dining experience, second to none. Recipient of numerous international prizes and accolades. Great service, elegant and distinctly old fashioned with class and style, if its unique 1920’s atmosphere and cuisine and refined service, this is the place in town for that fancy birthday, anniversary, or special moment in life.

Larry’s Bar

No.12 Tran Phu Street, Dalat Palace Hotel, based in the belly of the colonial style hotel, its a bar established by the late American billionaire, philanthropist and controversial bon vivant Larry Hillblom, with a unique colonial – outback bar atmosphere, great music ( live Friday and Saturday evening performances) and the best pizza to be found east of the Mekong river and beyond. The friendly staff have been there for years and know their punters by name and preferred drinks. One of the few waterholes in town to close past the midnight hours, kitchen service until closing moments. Prices are pretty high (e.g. for a personal pizza as of Dec. 11).

Nam Giao Cafe

No. 4C Chu Van An street, tel: 0633822875, 15′ walking from Xuan Huong Lake, 10′ walking from “Dinh Bao Dai” (Bao Dai’s Summer Palace #2)), well known for “Bún Bò” and “Mì Quảng”, the traditional noodle that Vietnamese often have for breakfast. Price: 12,000-45,000 VND. 7AM-10PM.

Dã Quỳ / Wild Sunflower Restaurant

No.49 Truong Cong Dinh) offers very high-quality French & Vietnamese cuisine at reasonable prices by Western standards.

Peace Café next to Peace Hotel 1 offers some of the cheapest eats in Dalat, with a variety of items on the menu.

Sunshine Town” (Ap Anh Sang) has traditional food quite cheap in clean surroundings, right out the circle.

Âu Lạc, Bui Thi Xuan Street, offers good vegetarian food.

Việt Mỹ CaFé

No. 9A Le Dai Hanh) offering both local and western food along with an excellent selection of alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages. Small and neat atmosphere, overlooking the city gardens. Either eat alfresco, watching the hustle and bustle of DaLat’s streets moving by, with some nice indoor dining. Owner speaks English.

What to drink

Cafe 13, 13 Tang Bat Ho street, Corner of Truong Cong Dinh street & Tang Bat Ho street, This lush garden bar is set under the biggest avocado tree in Dalat. The atmosphere is relaxed and comfortable with the space almost exclusively lit by fairy lights, plants scattered everywhere through the courtyard and walls decorated with Warhol-esque portraits of pop culture idols, who frequently come on the stereo. You can get beer for 15000dong, or mixed drinks from 30000dong (the mojitos are the real deal). They also do coffee and smoothies (try the mulberry yogurt drink). Food is also amazing, with all produce hand picked locally. The mixed western/Vietnamese menu includes bacon&eggs for brekky, Thai currys, steak, Pho, and hamburgers.

The Hangout Bar, 71 Truong Cong Dinh street, opposite Peace Hotel, is one of the best bar in town. Not only is it locates in the centre of the city and has free pool table, board games, darts, …etc., but also has great music with a huge collection from different artists around the world – tourists can choose the music to listen as well. It’s a good place to pick travel tips, meet other travelers, expats and locals. The Hangout Bar is the latest place in town still open after midnight.

TOMS Cafe Some kind of wonderful coffee such as espresso, Cappuchino, Latte. Please visit my website to get more info.

Larry’s Bar, 12 Tran Phu (in the basement of the Dalat Palace Hotel). Open every night. The Dalat Palace was championed by philanthropist, controversial American billionaire and bon vivant, Larry Hillblom, who saved the palace from obscurity and demolition and who also happened to have lots of American dollars to spent, as the co-founder of DHL. Larry’s Bar pays homage to Larry’s British background. Library-style with dark wood paneling, pool table, darts and lots of good beer and nuts available. Great place to relax after a day of biking or hiking. Currently January 2011 has happy hour 5-7.

Y-Niem Cafe and Nightclub, beautiful architectural design and exceptional service.

Cafe Tung’, really nice cafe. The delicious Vietnamese coffee costs 8000 dong and is served with tea.

Saigon Nite, Cheep beer, pool and friendly staff. Also the only bar open after midnight. Lonely planet calls it “One of the better late-night place to shoot pool and share a drink with ex-pats and visitors.”

Minet Shisha Cafe, 48 Hoang Dieu Street, 5 Ward, Da Lat City. Opening time: Daily from 7:00am to 23:00pm. Minet Shisha Cafe, which is the home of delicious beverages and beautiful music in Da Lat city, is a boast of the western and eastern atmosphere combination and outstanding services. It is decorated with glorious and original design. Moreover, customers can enjoy Shisha in different flavour. Why don’t you come to Minet Shisha Cafe and try a new experience? Let’s enjoy Shisha during cold and rainy season. Please visit our website to get more info http://www.minetshisha.com

Where to stay

Accommodation in Dalat is very reasonable in the ‘off-season’, for as little as US$10 per night for a perfectly presentable hotel room with double bed and ensuite. In high season prices rise and advance booking is a good idea – particularly during weekends most hotels in the centre are fully booked.

Budget

“‘Joyful spring cafe/guesthouse ” tel: 0916889880. A family-owned guesthouse and cafe, located about 5 minutes outside Dalat city center by motorbike. Overlooking a lush forested valley, our quiet, cosy little home is the perfect place to experience Da Lat at it’s finest start at 10 USD/ night. Motorbikes for rent, an open kitchen to cook the best scenery in all of Dalat, and all this with the comforts of a warm and friendly home. Plus you get to meet little Xuan Hy (the inspiration for the place).

Les Sapins 60 Hotel, Tel. +84 (0) 633830839, 60 Truong Cong Dinh Street, next to peace cafe, is a new choice for sleep and drink. It has been recently renovated. Very clean rooms, rooms don’t smell like in many other cheap locations, hot shower system (all day), free wifi and internet down in the lobby. The cafe bar downstairs has a selection of Dalat and French wines and cheap prices for cocktails. The staff is super friendly and they will make your coffee just the way you want it. Rate for room is 12$ to 20$ per night. (Website http://www.lessapins60dalathotel.com)

Hoa Binh 1 Hotel, also known as Peace Hotel 1, is anything but peaceful, and fills to capacity on weekends. But staff are friendly, rooms are available from US$10-15 per night, and there is a cafe next door. +84 (0)63 382 2787

Peace Hotel is where the Peace Cafe is in the LP. Has Wi-Fi and you can book breakfast for 1 additional dollar. Rooms from about 7 dollar. 8 dollar for street view.

Dreams Hotel, 151 Phan Dinh Phung Street, ☎ 3833748 (dreams@hcm.vnn.vn). Clean rooms, friendly staff and full big breakfast. They also have Sauna, Steam and Hot tub for free use of guests (4.00 p.m to 7.00p.m). The hot shower system was real good & of course up-to-date in style!

Thanh Huong Hotel, 02 Bui Thi Xuan St., ☎ 063 382 7699 (thu_lyttkn@yahoo.com). is located on Bui Thi Xuan close to Xuan Huong lake. Reasonably priced, includes cable tv, wifi, fridge. Some rooms have balconies.

Ngoc My Hotel is nice location, at 01 Le thi Hong Gam St with the Xuan huong lake view, big parking and clean room,nice balcony face to lake, costs from 25 USD/double room.

Van Anh Hotel is located on Di Bui Thi Xuan, and charges US $10 for a twin or double room, and US $15 for a triple. The staff are extremely friendly, helpful and speak good English, rooms are clean with cable TV, private bathrooms and hot water, and there is excellent wifi. Also very motorcycle-friendly.

Nam Ky Hotel is located at 11 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia – Tp. Da Lat. good overview and cheap rates. Telephone: (063) 3824493 – 3828295 or Vinaphone : 091 3789449

Try the Ngoc Quynh Hotel_2 Yersi, about 2km from the centre, good overview, cheap and also very friendly.

Or you may want to stay near the student centre, try the Sakura Hotel on Bui Thi Xuan Street. This street is full of cheap hotels.

In the centre, opposite the market, Nguyen Chi Thanh Street also offers cheap lodgings.

Hang Nga Guest House on Bui Thi Xuan Street (opposite Trung Cang Hotel) is worth checking out – friendly staff, clean rooms, good English spoken, with rooms from $7. email mrgentle_tour@yahoo.com Tel. Mr. Gentle +84903100132 (As at January 15th 2013 the email address doesn’t work)

My Dream hotel :213A Phan Đình Phùng Thành Phố Đà Lạt, Lâm Đồng , cheap rate from 7 to 10 USD/night. contact: Ms. Leha +84.918564472 or email:dalateasyrider@gmail.com / www.mydreamhoteldalat.com

Hồng Tâm Hotel located at 12 Nam Kỳ Khời Nghĩa is about a 5-10 minute walk from Da Lat market. Cost was about 450,000 VND per night during the week of Tet. Clean, comfortable rooms and friendly staff. Tel: +84.063.837554

Tourist and FIT Hotels

Dalat Edensee Lake Resort & Spa, Tuyen Lam Lake – Zone VII.2, ☎ +84 63 383 1515. Superior mountain view, deluxe garden view and eden suite, all equipped with 32-inch LCD TV, King bed and Fully equipped mini-bar. Facilities and services are Wi-Fi Internet access, Nam Xuan, Eden Lake Café, and Riesling Restaurant. From USD 139.00.

Golf 1 Hotel 3 star hotel at Dinh Tien Hoang Street. 5 minute walk to Xuan Huong lake and Dalat market.

The Dalat Palace Heritage Luxury Hotel

12, Tran Phu Street the only 5-star hotel in Dalat, with 43 luxury rooms and suites, one presidential suite, built in the Art Deco style of the 1920’s French architecture and refurbished during later stages in a Victorian Art Deco style, with imperial dining rooms and facilities. It has beautiful gardens, it was conceived as the very center of the city and dominates with great views onto the Xuan Huong lake. It also has an 18-hole championship golf course,tennis courts, spa, a unique site and among the most beautiful in Vietnam. It has been home away from home to the famous and scandalous from all over the globe for the past many decades, with historical figures and moments in time, so special and unique that it has inspired many books and novels. www.dalatpalace.vn

Dalat Du Parc Heritage Boutique Hotel 3/4-star hotel built in 1922, part of the original Dalat Palace compound, with 143 rooms and one Ambassador suite, unique style and glory of yesterday, with any and all of the services through friendly, competent and English speaking staff, with excellent services, a very old fashioned lift and great views from the rooms at the back of the hotel of slopping Dalat’s housing and hill scenery. The must stay at least one night for any visitor to Dalat, as the adjecent restaurant part of the hotel just completes the picture with great food.www.hotelduparc.vn

Empress Hotel Dalat 5, Nguyen Thai Hoc Street, Dalat, Lam Dong Province

Ngoc Lan hotel4-star hotel in the center of Dalat city, on a poetic hill and overlooking the picturesque Xuan Huong lake, Ngoc Lan is one of the newer hotels in Dalat, ( Three years ) with an extensive sauna and massage parlor in the basement.

Hoang Anh Dalat resort The resort covers five hectares, is comprised of six villas with 75 rooms in total.

Ana Mandara Villas Dalat Resort & Spa Le Lai Street, Da Lat, TheAna Mandara Villas Dalat Resort & Spa is nestled on the gentle slopes of Vietnam’s rural highlands. This five star resort houses 65 well-appointed rooms that are ensconced in 17 fully refurbished French colonial villas. Le Lai Street, Da Lat, a bit far from the city center and only recommended for those who like to walk on very rough surfaces gobble stones, with large distances between the accommodation and the other services of the resort. Charming and for the adventurous, must like sharing living rooms and other services, as each villas houses several rooms, hence the sharing issue.

How to get out

Safe bus (45 seats with A/C) always be ready each 30′ to go to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh city), it takes about 190.000 VND/ticket, ~7hrs/trip (~5-6 hrs at night). Contact dalat.thesinhtourist office, 4Bui thi Xuan St.

To Nha Trang, it costs also 120.000 VND/ticket, ca. 4 hrs/trip., to HOCHIMINH city is 190.000VND/pax 7hrs trip., to MUINE beach is 120.000VND/pax , 4hrs trip

What to know about Ha Giang, Vietnam

Posted by editor on 8:09 am in Blog | Comments Off on What to know about Ha Giang, Vietnam

Introduction

Ha Giang is a province in northeastern Vietnam, bordering Cao Bang province in the east, Yen Bai and Lao Cai province in the west and Tuyen Quang in the south. Northern Ha Giang province share the border with China (border length 274 kilometers)

The topography of Ha Giang province is complex; it can be divided into three regions: upland mountain in the north, valley and rivers. Its climate is moderate, divided into 2 seasons: rainy and dry seasons. Western upland of massif upstream of Chay River, steep slopes, narrow valleys and streams, which was divided into two seasons: rainy and dry seasons. Lowland in the province includes hills, Lo River and Ha Giang town. The average temperature is about 240C-280C, in the winter, temperature can go down to -50C.

According to census on April 1st 2009 Ha Giang population is 724.537 people in which H’Mong accounts for 32% total population, Tay (23.3%), Dao (15.1%), Viet (13.3%) and Nung (9.9%)

Ha Giang has many mountains such as Tay Con Linh with 2.419 meters height, there has many old growth forests, many precious wood, and 1.000 kinds of rare herbs. The animal includes tiger, hemorrhoids, phoenix, pangolin… and hundreds of other birds. Ha Giang has poetic and grandeur upland: Dong Van, Khau Vai love market which attracts a numbers of tourists. Coming to Ha Giang, tourists have opportunity to access the unique culture and traditional products such as: bags, dresses with brilliant pattern. Moreover, tourists can enjoy the fair of uplands and explore exciting experience.

The newly-built house ceremony of the Lo Lo is a highlight of Ha Giang. It lasts about 2 days 2 nights at the new home of the Lo Lo. All people in village pull to celebrate the new house. Spring festival is the festival of H’Mong and Dao, it usually held on the day after lunar New Year and lasts from 3 to 7 days. The festivals include crossbow, throwing pa pao’, and drinking wine… .

In brief, Ha Giang has many unique traditional heritages of more than 20 ethnic, a memorable destination by the natural landscape.

Transportation

Hanoi – Ha Giang: 318 kilometers

a, Motorbike

b, Bus

Price ticket: 160.000vnd-180.000vnd

Time: 3:00am-5:30 am

From Hanoi to Ha Giang, you must pass more than 300 kilometers to the town then turn up 4C province deeply in the remote of arctic land.

Best time to come to Ha Giang is in November when the rice is in the harvest, flower blooms in the field and the rainy season is over.

What to see

Dong Van karst plateau

Dong Van karst plateau has an area of 2.350 square kilometers, spreads over four districts of Ha Giang province: Quan Ba, Yen Minh, Dong Van and Meo Vac at an average height of 1.400 – 1.600 meters with a number of beautiful limestone and winding road. Here, scientists have found 33 tectonics heritages, 45 geomorphology heritages and many unique fossils in sedimentary rock, which creates opportunities for the tourist attraction, brings income for indigenous people.

From Ha Giang town, along 4C Highway about 50 kilometers, tourists step into Quan Ba districts with spectacular and grandeur mountain scenery. In the journey to the rocky plateau, visitors can enjoy the beauty of Can Ty Pass. Dong Van karst plateau has 80% limestone, is one of the most distinctive karst in Vietnam with black and majestic boulders. The shapes of boulders are created by environmental conditions and different stages of development. Here, the whole scene is rocks with various shapes such as petals, flowers, flower branch (Khau vai rock garden, Veo Vac District) or the shape of tiger (Lung Cu rock garden). Van Chai rock garden has green grass that creates the majestic and grandeur beauty for landscape.

Besides the geological value, Dong Van karst plateau also attracts tourists by the unique cultural and spiritual values associated with the ethnic Mong, Dao, Lo Lo… living on the plateau. They picked up stones to build house, walls. They carved stone to grow corn. They renovated the mountainside into a vast of rice. The beauty and grandeur of Dong Van plateau comes from not only the huge natural boulders but also the fair of the H’mong, Dao, Lo Lo… In the morning, ethnic people from neighbor districts come to fair with colorful costumes.

From the geological unique, in the end of 2010, Dong Van karst plateau was recognized as the first geological park of Vietnam and Geoparks of the world. Dong Van karst plateau is one of the special limestone mountain, including the marks of the history of the earth’s crust process and tradition of indigenous communities.

Dong Van karst plateau has all elements convergence to become global Geoparks. Rocky plateau also has national relic such as: mansion of Vuong family, Lung Cu flag pole, Dong Van ancient, Ma Li Peng pass, Quan Ba Twin Mountain…

Lung Cu

Lung Cu belongs to Dong Van district, Ha Giang. It is far about 200 kilometer from Ha Giang town. Here, visitors will have the opportunity to enjoy fresh air, learn more about cultural traditional of a unique ethnic. Along highway 4C, tourists will arrive in Dong Van commune, Dong Van District. From here, continuing follow the paved road linking the Lung Cu commune-Dong Van about 40 kilometers, visitors will come to the top of Lung Cu.

From a distance, Lung Cu is so beautiful. This land has third-fours stone, the national flagpole like Hanoi flagpole. When approached, the beauty will become more vivid. The flagpole is situated in Dragon Mountain, at the foot of the pole; it is carved reliefs with a clear pattern of Dong Son bronze drum. If tourists contemplate carefully, tourists will explore in the middle of Dragon Mountain has a large grotto, people here called “Si Ma Khan” grotto.

Lung Cu has a total area of 3460 hectares with 9 villages, there are: Lo Lo Chai, Seo Lung, Ta Gia Khau, Can Tang, Then Van, Then Pa, Si Man Khan, San Cho, San Sa Phin and borders with China more than 16 kilometers. Here, in the winter, it is very cold and has snow. Among 9 villages, Lung Cu Thi Seo Lung village located in uppermost land with Then Phan  valley on the left and Nho Que River on the right.

Ethnic people in Lung Cu mainly cultivate. The H’Mong and Lo Lo still preserve the traditional weaving. Specially, Lung Cu also reserves historical artifacts, precious cultural artifacts of the reign of Hung Vuong. According to historical records, on the Tay Son dynasty, Emperor Quang Trung putted in place a large drum and the position of the drum is Lung Cu. Therefore, the Lo Lo in Lung Cu is proficient in using bronze drum.

Moreover, this place has Shan tea, honey wine, corn wine, peach blossom, white snow and thang co in each fair…along with the traditional cultural characteristics of ethnic people such as: H’Mong, Lo Lo, Giay… Lung Cu has fascinating in its beauty to attract many tourists. Indeed, if tourists have a chance to come here in the spring, visitors will be enjoyed the fresh air, the sound of love melody of the H’Mong.

Nho Que River

Nho Que River flows from the area of Nghiem Son Mountain that is 1500 meters height. This river is not too long, about 46 kilometers, in which the upper area accounts for more than 5 kilometers is the border of two countries Vietnam – China, the rest part flows through Ha Giang and Cao Bang province.

Thanks to the advantage of upper area with quite slope, strong flow through ruggered rock, it creates waterfall in the middle of the valley. Nho Que River flows through the Tu San canyon and Ma Pi Leng Pass of Meo Vac district, it is far about 15kilometers from Lung Cu.

Trails from Dong Van to the Tu San western ravine are very deserted and winding. With narrow path, a lot of ruggered rock, it makes people scare when contemplating abyss. However, visitors can enjoy red bombax throughout the rice terraces in the mountainside, back pass and the image of Nho Que River.

The catchment has an area of 6052 km ² (2010 km² in Vietnam). Nho Que is a major tributary on the right bank of the Nhiem River. This is the river brings economic value to locals: serving plentiful water to agricultural activities in the dry season.

It is also a beautiful destination for tourists. Standing on Ma Pi leng mount, tourists can contemplate a river like a silky fillet looming in fog which brings tourists a pleasant sensation of a naturally romantic masterpiece. The river is concerned as the mysterious of nature.

Quan Ba Twin mountain

Twin Mountain is located along Highway 4C, it is far about 40 kilometers from Ha Giang town, belongs to Quan Ba district, Ha Giang province. From a distance, Quan Ba Twin Mountain looks like two cherries as an art of nature. The mountain associates with a touching legend.

Visitors have the opportunity to admire the art of the nature give to this land. Between the mountain and rice terraces, there have mountains with strange shape that make visitors surprise by the spectacular beauty of the nature. Two mountains associated with the legend “Co Tien Mountain” very interesting.

It is said that, in this area, there has a handsome H’Mong and have talent blowing “dan moi”. Sound of “dan moi” flies and flies away forever. There has a fairy in heaven with name “Hoa Dao”, she hears the sound of “dan moi” and tries to find the way to come the earth. And she falls in love with him. He became the husband of the fairy.

Ngoc Hoang found Hoa Dao fly to the earth, which makes him angry. She begged to have custody of baby boy but could not do it. So that she had left her breast to her son. Later, her breast turned into twin mountain of Co Tien Mountain. According to the legend, the milk from her breast creates the cool climate, fruits and vegetable has delicious flavors. Tears of her turned into Mien River, embracing the silvers of land behind the legendary gate.

Quan Ba Twin Mountain is a beautiful symbols of the Dong Van highland, which is the crystalline beauty of nature and tectonic. With this value, the mountain is recognized the national scenic spot by the Ministry of Culture Sport and tourism Vietnam. This is also a pride point to Dong Van highland is more attractive to tourists. The number of tourists to Ha Giang cannot help admiring the spectacular beauty of the mountains, the unique gift which heaven bless for Ha Giang.

What to do

Ha Giang Spring Festival

Vietnam is famous for its historic and cultural traditions. There are plenty of occasions to celebrate major events throughout the year. During the first three months of the lunar year, a lot of festivals take place across the country.

Vietnam has more than 60 ethnic minorities, each with its own dialects, costumes, and cultures, living scattered over the country for centuries.

Despite such differences these groups have something in common to share and enjoy. Like many other Asian countries, every year starts with the cultivation of a new crop of wet rice – the main source of food in Vietnam – which is celebrated in the form of religious rituals by ethnic groups to express their gratitude and respect to the gods.

The Dao in Ha Giang province regularly holds a spring festival on Lunar New Year’s Day to pray for good weather and a bumper crop. The Long Tong (Going to the Field) festival of the Thai ethnic minority, which takes place in Tuyen Quang, Lao Cai, and Bac Kan provinces, is a unique event to worship the gods and also bring people in the community together to feast and play games.

At the festival, 4 youths were dressed from four positions to the festival. On the festival tray is boiled chicken, square cake, honey rice cake… The sorcerer read heaven praying for good weather, good harvests… Pray for prosperous life, peaceful and eliminate the old customs.

Ha Giang Fire Dancing Festival

Pa Then ethnic has over 5.000 people living mainly in two districts: Bac Quang and Chiem Hoa. There still remain many festivals and customs from the past, in which fire dance is the most unique and mysterious.

The festival is considered as the new rice festival of the Pa Then. Fire dance fest starts in mid-October lunar calendar and lasts through New Year. To start the fire festival, it must have a sorcerer do liturgy.  The rite includes incense, a chicken, 10 cups of wine, paper money. A big fire was burned and the sorcerer begins the rite.

The time of liturgy lasts 1-2 hours before starting fire dance festival. When sorcerer beats the guitar, each youth will sit facing with sorcerer. It is the time for dancing fire. After that, he jumped into the fire without fear or sensation. Each people jumps into the fire for 3-4 minutes, then break up. One people can join the dance several times, thus showing the strength and agility of them. Fire dance is only for men and these guys always get the admiration, respect of everyone.

If visitors want to feel the mystery and sacred festival, you can join the fire dance of the Pa Then.  This is a unique festival and it is considered as the new rice festival, starts in mid-October and lasts the Lunar New Year.

Currently, in the village of Pa Then, fire dance festival still preserved intact, regularly held on the occasion of New Year, it is one of the focal point of tourists when they want to explore unique culture of Pa Then ethnic in particular and the northern ethnic in general.

Ha Giang Praying for Rain Festival

Praying for rain festival of the Lo Lo is common religious in agriculture. On the festival occasions, almost all activities of the Lo Lo are aimed at praying for rain. They wish the rain down to the Meo Vac field and they pray for a prosperous forever.

Every March, when the climate is dry and trees lack water, Lo Lo ethnic people in Meo Vac, Ha Giang Province often held a praying for rain festival. With typical rituals, the festival, handed down from generation to generation, is also an opportunity to meet one another.

The praying for rain festival is often held on the 15th, 17th, 19th of the 3rd lunar month. It is only organized when the weather is harsh or drought appears. Previously, rich people in villages used to pay for the cost of the festival but nowadays each villager contributes an item to the festival. Objects include a chicken, a dog or a kilogram of rice is taken to the house of a sorcerer or village chief. To have a successful praying for rain festival, the first procedure that cannot be avoided is to organize a ceremony to ask ancestral sorcerers for aid.

The procedure is quite easy, including a cup of water, incense and bamboo paper (a kind of papers that is used for sacrifices of the Lo Lo people). First of all, the sorcerer burns incense at the family ancestor’s altar and then, the cup of water and the paper are placed at a house corner. After that, the sorcerer starts worshipping. He covers the water cup with the bamboo paper; if the water in the cup is not absorbed or poured out of the cup, “permission is granted” and then, the praying for rain festival will be successful. Finally, the sorcerer burns the bamboo paper and the procedure is completed.

The Lo Lo ethnic people believe that after organizing the festival within three to nine days, it will rain. The festival is divided into two parts: the ritual and the festival. The ritual is made with the participation of villagers. Live objects such as dogs and chicken will be taken to the praying place and worshiped twice. After being used for worshiping for the first time, village’s boys will slaughter them and use the meat for worshiping again.

When the worship finishes, villagers drink the alcohol, eat the meat and dance. Beautiful Lo Lo girls dance in their traditional costumes weaved with colorful patterns.

The rain praying festival is a typical cultural activity bearing unique characteristics. The festival is an opportunity for villagers to pray for luck and show their faith in God.

Ha Giang Forest Festival

Although the Pu Peo is ethnic people in Ha Giang, they still preserved many liturgies and a folklore treasure. Along with other liturgies are held in the New Year, people prays dryad for the green of forest, security for people in the forest fest. Also, from this ceremony, the forest has the Pu Peo protected very well, especially, the sacred forest. They protect the forest in order to have water for farming and have wood for making house. Each year, on June 6th lunar calendar, people held this fest with the most solemn rites.

The fest takes place in the forbidden forest, the sorcerer faces in a big tree and bow in the ground in order to pray dryad for protecting their village. The Pu Peo always understands that preserving forest is keeping water.

All thing were displayed on the banana leaf forest, the altar was constructed of green bamboo with nearly 2 meters height, facing the mountain. The square glutinous rice pounded to a pulp to make cakes, sliced carefully. On each piece of rice is a small boiled egg. It the bottom of the altar, there has 2 chickens which are still alive. Around the altar is bottle wine and bowl. Besides, they have forced a female goat near the altar. The fest lasts several hours; sorcerer holds a fresh bamboo waving in all time of liturgy. Sometimes, he holds a dried gourd. The rite shows the respect of human divided into three stages. The first stage, chickens and goats still live, the second stage, the youngsters cut their neck and finally, people have meal in this place right. The families do not attend, they also were divided food.

During the day, with the jubilant atmosphere and the unity of ethnic groups in the village, the liturgy was implemented by the Pu Peo ethnic. The festival part is involved by whole people in the village. Having traditional sports such as: push sticks, tug, playing “ao”…attract a large number of ethnic groups. Besides, folk song programs will be presented by the Pu Peo ethnic.

Harmony with nature, respect and protect natural forest as friend become a common sense of Pu Peo community, shown in each family, village. Each sacred forest is protected by people. It not only brings physical value and spiritual value but also contributes to protect and develop environment.

What to eat

Ha Giang Stone Bryophyte

For many years, bryophyte is regarded as the aquatic without effects. However, ethnic people in Xuan Giang commune, Ha Giang province, bryophyte is considered as special food. The food is made from it called “que”. This is not only delicious dish but also good for health.

According to local people, when looking bryophyte, they usually choose the fresh and great bryophyte. Then, it is cleaned and then is processed into many dishes. The bryophyte exists in 7 days, when it grows up to 3-4 days people should pick up right away.

Good bryophyte is less and it can eat depend on season, so it is precious dish. Bryophyte can be processed into many dishes such as fried bryophyte, dried bryophyte but the most unique dish is bryophyte mixed with spices and then grilled.

When grill, people cannot turn it several times but grill one side then grill the other. Since bryophyte dish depends on season people often make dried bryophyte. Special customers are eaten the special dish: dried bryophyte. Grilled bryophyte not only is favorite food of ethnic people but also can cure many diseases, help blood circulation, detoxification, heat stability, blood stability and strengthening resistance.

Ha Giang Dried Buffalo

Dried buffalo is special food in the meals of Black Thai. This meat is usually made from muscle of buffaloes and cows freely on the northwest mountains. When making it, people cut meat into pieces with the grain then smoked by charcoal from the mountains. With the dried buffalo, the flavor of smoke is almost intact. The processing techniques are traditional secret but products are quite homogeneous. People use some spices such as pepper, ginger, especially “mac khen”- a type of forest pepper of Northwest upland ethnic minorities.

You can contemplate the spices in each meat. Dried meat still retains the flavor characteristics, especially, the sweetness of the meat. When people often shred with the grain, it can eat immediately or use with corn wine. This dish is made completely natural, so it can reserve about 1 month.

Today, cultural exchange scale between ethnic people becomes more and more develop, dried buffalo not only is the dish of the Thai but also follows the guests to nationwide. Therefore, the method to enjoy this dish is different and depends on each place.

If the Thai often enjoys their special dish instead of eating foods, especially on the rain, floods or lack of food… but now, this dish can be served with hot pot or baking dish. However, the unique flavor of buffalo meat only intact when taken directly from the kitchen, still smell of smoke, spicy peppers, flavor of “khac men”

Ha Giang Au Tau Porridge

In Ha Giang, there have many unique dishes that visitors cannot forget. Bitter porridge or “au tau” porridge is special dish. Tourists can enjoy all flavors in a bowl of porridge: flavors of “au tau”, leaf spices… Bowl of “au tau” porridge looks very attractive by the harmony between rice, herbs, meat… Cooking “au tau” porridge is not simple. “Au tau” after washing in the water, it is stewed during 4 hours. Glutinous rice mixed with some rice then soak into stewed water of pig’s trotters and “au tau”. Add a little spice. The porridge has bitter taste so that people call bitter porridge.

Many people come to Ha Giang, if they have been enjoying once they will seek to eat again. “Au tau” porridge is not only the normal dish but also a tonic medicine to cure sick. Bitter porridge in Ha Giang has had all time in the year, but it sold only at night. In the winter, sitting in a warm space and enjoying the “au tau” porridge is exciting and suitable for people who love exploring new things.

Shan Tuyet Tea in Ha Giang

Ha Giang is one of the provinces has the oldest Shan tea area in the country. From the early 20th century, the French investigates tea in Ha Giang and take attention to the ancient highland tea. It is Shan tea with big leaves, many snow-white hair covered buds and have good quality. So that people called Shan tuyet.

In the natural forests of Ha Giang, Shan Tuyet tea grown mixed with other forest trees. In Ha Giang, Shan Tuyet tea located throughout most of the districts in which the ancient tea areas have 300-1000meters height. So far, some areas of province has highly specific for the an ecological tea such as: Lung Phin, Phin Ho, Tham Ve, Bo Duot,… that represents the oldest tea area of Vietnam. This is the local that produces the famous Shan Tuyet tea. The reputation of Shan Tuyet tea conquered not only the consumers but also the connoisseurs in enjoying tea.

The Shan Tuyet tea in Ha Giang can be divided into two main types, there are: small Shan tea leaves, tea in Lung Phin with typical characteristics as raspberry or candle shape. Raspberry shape tea has a small leaf tea is less than candle shape tea. In addition to the perennial tea, Ha Giang still grows tea in the lowland.

Where to eat

Minh Hieu Restaurant

Address: Nguyen Trai, Ha Giang

Tel: (84-19) 386 3558

Time: 9:00am-9:00pm

Payment: Cash

Coming to the restaurant, guests will feel comfortable when enjoying the delicious unique dishes. Along with the fresh air and enthusiastic staffs, we commit to serve you with professional style as well as thoughtful as possible.

We will be happy to serve you at the restaurants. Your presence of guests is the greatest praise for the restaurant, the service and essence of the cuisine of Vietnam.

Phuong Dong Hotel Restaurant

Address: Nguyen Trai, Ha Giang

Tel: 019. 3 866 015

Time: 6:00am-10:00pm

Payment: cash

Located in the center of Ha Giang province, Phuong Dong restaurant is the wonderful place for you to share your joy with family and friends along with the delicious dishes. In addition, the beauty of Phuong Dong restaurant has combination between modernity and tradition.

With the professional staffs, the restaurant will bring many delicious dishes for guests. All thing blends from the beautiful space to high quality dishes, guests will have unforgettable impression in here.

Phuong Dong Hotel Restaurant

Address: Nguyen Trai, Ha Giang

Tel: 019. 3 866 015

Time: 6:00am-10:00pm

Payment: cash

Located in the center of Ha Giang province, Phuong Dong restaurant is the wonderful place for you to share your joy with family and friends along with the delicious dishes. In addition, the beauty of Phuong Dong restaurant has combination between modernity and tradition.

With the professional staffs, the restaurant will bring many delicious dishes for guests. All thing blends from the beautiful space to high quality dishes, guests will have unforgettable impression in here.

Where to stay

Ha Giang accommodation

Truong Xuan Resort, Ha Giang
Telephone – +842193811102
Email – hagiangresort@gmail.com

Located on Highway 4 about 8 Kilometres from Ha Giang Town, Truong Xuan Resort features simple bungalows in a picturesque mountain setting overlook a river. It’s a good base for village walks too. It’s priced at less than US$50. Includes wifi.

Dong Van accommodation

Hoang Ngoc Hotel
Main street of Dong Van
Tel: +84219 3 856020
Email: hoangngochotel2@gmail.com
Free wifi
Under $20USD

Meo Vac accommodation

The main hotel in Meo Vac is the Hoa Cuong and it’s surprisingly good for its 1 star rating. It’s also only 100 metres from the market.

Hoa Cuong Hotel
Meo Vac town centre
(+84) 2193 871 888
Under US$20

Ha Giang Travel Tips

1. Exchange money: You can exchange currency at the hotel where you live or go to Bank of Ha Giang

2. Internet: Free internet at the hotel

3. Hospital

Ha Giang Hospital
Address: Tran Phu, Ha Giang
Tel: 019.3866299

Hospital of lung and tuberculosis
Address: Minh Khai, Ha Giang
Tel:

Hospital of Quan Ba
Address: Quan Ba, Hang Giang
Tel:

Hospital of Ha Giang commune
Address: Minh Khai, Ha Giang
Tel:

Hospital of Yen Minh
Address: Yen Minh, Ha Giang
Tel: 019.3852016

Hospital of Bac Me
Address: Bac Me, Ha Giang
Tel: 019.3841494

Ninh Binh Vietnam travel

Posted by editor on 9:43 am in Blog | Comments Off on Ninh Binh Vietnam travel

Introduction

Ninh Binh is the capital city of Ninh Binh Province in North Vietnam, famous for the nearby Karst scenery and the village of Tam Coc. There is nothing to do in Ninh Binh itself aside from drinking beer with the locals; the town is more useful as a base for the surrounding countryside.

How to get there

By taxi

Taxis from Hanoi costs US$68 Taxis from Noi Bai international airport cost $85 usd , 2 hour journey

By bus

There are regular buses from Hanoi’s southern bus terminal (Giap Bat) that leave every 15 min (or whenever full) 60,000 Dong. Note that this may rise to 90,000 per person with luggage.Journey time for the 90km is 1.5-2.5 hr traffic depending. Buy a ticket in the ticket hall or you will likely have to pay more than 60,000 or be removed from the bus.the service is slow but relaxed and comfortable using one of the very common Hyundai 20-odd seat buses.

Open tour buses will drop passengers off upon request (Ninh Binh is not a regular stop). Most open tour buses from Hanoi will arrive at 9:30PM. Tour buses from Hue arrive at a rather early 4AM.

From Cat Ba island you can book a bus-boat-bus-bus ticket for 230,000 dong. Leaves at 9am and takes about 5h. Seems to be the easiest and cheapest way. The first bus takes you the harbour where you transfer onto a boat (and at times from that boat to another boat) to Haiphong’s Ben Binh harbour. The second bus takes you to a bus station called Bến xe Niệm Nghĩa which is quite far from the harbour and turns out not that convenient on a DIY trip. From there you wait for the bus to leave at 12pm. Seats are tiny even for small westerners. Drops you at Ninh Binh bus stations, walking distance from hotels and hostels. All the above uses local transports so expect locals boarding at various places.

Alternative buses including tourist ones leave from Haiphong a few times a day.

By train

Ninh Binh is a regular station for the Reunification Express, with trains coming from both North and South. It is usually a quick stop, with few people getting off, especially at night, so get off quick or miss the stop. Hard Seat 35-45,000 depending on train number 2-2.5 hours.

How to get around

By motorbike

A motorbike is the best way to view Ninh Binh and the surrounding areas. Most hotels can arrange for a motorbike driver/guide to take you around the sites for about US$15 a day. Hire a motorbike (commonly Honda 110cc) for 100,000 Dong. These take 3 litres of fuel costing 50,000 which will last a day of exploring.The local roads are bad, the local driving ranges from nuts to insane.
By bicycle

Cycling is a good option for visiting nearby sights. Finding a bicycle for rental is easy.

By foot

The actual town of Ninh Binh is quite small and walkable. Most of the interesting sights are located 10-20 km away.

What to see and do

Hoa Lu is the ancient capital of the Dinh and Le dynastys which dates back to the 11th century. Serene and tranquil, Hoa Lu is set in beautiful surroundings beside to Truong Yen village and is easily visited on a day trip from Ninh Binh, or if you are in a rush you can combine it with a trip to Tam Coc and Bich Dong. In that case you can cycle from Hoa Lu to Truong Yen and on to Tam Coc thru very scenic countryside on narrow roads, about 17km in all, a highlight all by itself!

The remains of the ancient city are just that — remains. Hoa Lu is very beautiful, but not because of the salvaged buildings, but rather because of its setting. The old city was spread out over 200 hectares, and situated 14km northwest of Ninh Binh. On arrival, the first thing you will come across on the right, just after the last houses of the Truong Yen Village, is a walled temple. At the entrance there is a tourist map detailing the area and other sites to see. Farther down the road, you can organise a trip in a row boat, and venture up the Hoang Long River.

All that remains of the original palaces and temples are some obscure ruins and some temples which have been built on some of the old sites. Those still standing include the Dinh Tien Huang, the royal temple which houses a statue of Emperor Dinh Bo Linh and his sons as well as the royal temple of the early Le Dynasty.

A boat trip takes about two hours and returns by the same route. You will get a chance to stop and walk up to a small temple in a cave, on the side of a mountain, which has great views. You will also pass small farms and houses, and float through a tunnel with a Chinese written sign chiselled into the rock face. Hoa Lu makes for a very pleasant day trip from Ninh Binh.

Tam Coc- Bich Dong

The area surrounding Tam Coc and Bich Dong is characterised by stony outcrops not unlike those at Ha Long Bay, though a bit smaller in size and of course without the water. If you’re there at the right time of the year, when the paddies are full of water, the reflections make Bich Dong, in particular, almost as beautiful as Ha Long Bay.

At Bich Dong there’s a series of pagodas and a fascinating collection of caves farther up the outcrop. Some of these caves were used by the Viet Minh to hide from the French during the First Indochina War. The caves are full of stalactites that have been carved into Buddhist images, as well as stalactites that are hollow upon which tunes can be played.

You can climb all the way to the top of the outcrop, from where there are fantastic views. The rice paddies all reflect the surrounding peaks giving the effect of an emerald mirror.

At Tam Coc the scenery is very similar to Bich Dong but you can observe it from a small boat that one of the locals will paddle you around in. This is quite a tourist scene so expect to have to bargain hard to get a decent price. During the boat ride you will have the opportunity to visit Thai Vi Temple and a series of caves as you drift along a shallow river densely packed with reeds and birdlife.

Trang An Grottoes, (7 km from Ninh Binh). An easy bicycle ride away, Trang An Grottoes is similar to Tam Coc but with many more caves to pass through. Most caves have been widened in order for the boats to pass through and as result their natural beauty has been compromised. The first two caves are the most natural and beautiful but are also tight in places, so watch your head. Lots of concrete structures are being built all over the place and rice paddies are disappearing fast but hopefully this area will not lose its splendor. It might be worth bringing a torch in case the power fails and the lights go out, some of the tunnels are quite long and your rower may have forgotten their backup torch, as was the case for the boat in front of us and had to wait for our boat to provide light for them to navigate the last cave.

Phat Diem Cathedral

Located about 29km south east of Ninh Binh in Kim Son district and only a few km away from the Gulf of Tonkin, Phat Diem is of historical importance and a real hit with Vietnamese tourists.

It is in this area that the French and Portuguese missionaries first introduced catholicism to Vietnam. While most christians fled south, settling between Dalat and Saigon after the communists seized power in 1954, today they’re returning and many newly erected churches can be seen on the way to Phat Diem.

The Phat Diem Cathedral (Nha Tho Phat Diem) was built between 1875 and 1899 and in considered to be a fine example of sino-vietnamese architecture. The main building is 74m long, 21m wide and 11m high. The six rows of huge ironwood pillars and the carved stone entrance and altar are very impressive, and the whole complex has a peaceful, solemn feel to it. Try to be there at 10:00 for mass. Other mass hours are at 06:00 and 16:00.

Cuc Phuong National Park, (45km from Ninh Binh). A well preserved rainforest with an Endangered Primates Rescue Centre near the entrance. You can only visit the centre with a park guide, which costs an extra 20,000 dong per person and doesn’t take long. There are about 150 primates here being prepared for release back in the wild. Most are from other parts of Vietnam and any releases will be from where they originally came from. There is also a Botanical Garden near the entrance. Note that as at feb 23rd 2013, these gardens have no animals, but you are told that at the visitor centre so you can decide whether to proceed.Animals will be re-introduced when it gets warmer.From the entrance you can drive, motorbike or cycle a further 20 km along a densely rain forested paved road, from which several bypaths lead you through the jungle to prehistoric trees and caves. Cycling is probably the most rewarding way to travel this 20 km of often steeply inclined paved road and mountain bikes can be hired at the park entrance. The road ends at the Park Centre (Bong), from where there are several forest walks. The Park Centre has a restaurant and a place to buy snacks. The best chance to see any animals here is at night. Guided night tours for overnight stayers are available. There are other points of interest along the narrow 20 km road such as a cave, ancient trees and walking trails. One of the amazing things about this drive is the 1000’s upon 1000’s of colourful butterflies filling the roadway. Peak time for butterflies apparently is during April and May but in later months there may still many to be seen. It is especially enjoyable to touch the thousand-year-old cho xanh (parashrea stellata) and sau (Dracontomelum Duperranum or Dancorra Edulis) trees, 50-70 m high. The park is also suitable to watch birds, butterflies and orchid flowers. They are more concentrated than in a typical butterfly farm enclosure. A limited amount of overnight accommodation is available in either a detached bungalow or a stilt house. 20,000 dong.

What and where to eat

Mountain goat (de nui) meat is a local speciality, often eaten with fried rice (com chien). Another local specialty is com chay, which is the burnt rice off the bottom of the pot, served with pork. Duck features in many restaurants, and there are numerous dog-meat restaurants scattered throughout town (look for signs with a picture of a Great Dane or similar breed and the words thit cho).

The area near the train station has become a mini-backpacker area, and there are 4-5 backpacker cafes there with English menus and tourist prices (40,000-70,000d; coffee 15,000-20,000d). The three most popular restaurants are called “Good Food”, “Cheap Good Food”, and “Fast Food Cheap” (all on Hoang Hoa Tham).

What to drink

There are plenty of Bia Hoi sellers along side the river in the late afternoon / evenings. One glass usually costs 5,000 dong.

Plenty of places sell sugar cane drink with ice for about 5,000 dong.

Where to stay

There are a number of cheap hotels just outside the train station and next to the bus station. Other hotels are located near the center of town. As there is nothing to see in town, either area is suitable. The area near the train station has become a mini-backpacker district, complete with travel agents, touts, overpriced drinks and English-menu restuarants.

Kim Lieng Guesthouse, Ngo 212, No. 54 (still listed on google as Van Thanh No. 54) (On a small and quiet sideroad not far from the center of town), ☎ +84306250800. Situated on a small and quiet sideroad this place is run by the charismatic Madame Kim Lienh, and is a no frills yet very honest place to stay. Rooms are clean ($17 for a double, +3$ for aircon) but basic. Kim is very friendly, provides help with local transportation, arrangement of public bus tickets and transportation and also sometimes offers to cook dinner for VND 70,000 per person (be prepared for loads of food). Doors close at 10.30pm, but the staff can be woken by simply knocking on the doors (or preferrably informing them of late arrivals or excursions beforehand). For our amusement, the rest of the pretty young staff seemed to get quite heavily stoned as it got late, to a point where ordering a beer scores you only puzzled looks. US$16-US$19.

Ngoc Anh Hotel, 30 Luong Van Tuy St, ☎ +84 30 3883-768. Family hotel, friendly staff, good location, rooms are clean, all rooms have A/C, en-suite, cable TV with good reception, wifi. Deluxe rooms also have a computer, a fridge and balcony. There are 2 modern computers in reception/restaurant area. US$12-25.

Nha Viet Hotel, Đường Lê Thái Tổ, phố Đẩu Long (On the way to the stadium of Ninh Binh Vissai FC), ☎ +84 91 553 1317. Owners (family) will help you in every possible way. Cook food that you want, english-speaking staff, motorbike rental, wifi, clean, washing clothes, convenient location, far enough from main road to provide peace and quiet. US$12.

Queen Mini Hotel, 21 Hoang Hoa Tham (One block in front of the train station). Near the train and bus station, always packed with tourists and often full. Particularly popular with the French. Rooms are clean enough, but filled with insects. Wifi in the lobby, but it doesn’t reach all the rooms. The owner’s refrain is “You pay now”. They are affiliated with “Good Food” restaurant across the street. Be warned: there are four hotels sharing this name, and it’s not clear if any of them are related: The Queen Mini (this one), the Queen Hotel (across the street, upscale), the New Queen Mini Backpacker’s Hostel (on the same street, often has grille down; they advertise rates of $3 incl. breakfast!), and the New Queen Mini Hotel (two streets south). US$6-15.

Thanh Binh hotel, 31 Luong Van Tuy St, ☎ +84 30 872 439. Some members of the staff are somewhat helpful and friendly. Possibility to rent (motor)bikes for US$6/day. Breakfast is not included. Monosodium glutamate (MSG) is added to some of their foods. US$10-12 (double room).

Thanh Thuy’s Guest House and New Hotel, 128 Le Hong Phong, ☎ +84 30 387 1811. The guest house rooms are large and pleasant with a shared bathroom. Hotel rooms are en-suite and quieter as they’re set back from the road. There’s a reasonably priced restaurant adjacent to reception. Motorbike and bicycles available for hire. Staff are a little brisk but helpful and speak good English. US$6-10 (guest house), US$15-35 (hotel).

Xuan Hoa Hotel, 37 P Minh Khai (On the eastbound road from town center, next to a reservoir), ☎ +84 30 880-970. Owner will help you in every possible way. Great food, bicycle and motorbike rental, convenient location, though far enough from main road to provide peace and quiet. US$15-35.  edit
Kinh Do Hotel, 18 Phan Dinh Phung St (100 metres east of main [Hwy1]), ☎ 030 3.899.152. Newly purchased and managed by two brothers, Luong and Anh, who both speak good English. Clean quiet [despite proximity to main road] rooms, good food in clean restaurant, a/c, ensuite, free wifi in rooms,laundry,massage. Genuinely friendly staff. Very helpful [advice, bicycle/motorbike rental, tours to local attractions, pickup-dropoff at bus or train]. US 7-25.

How to get out

Laos – There is a nightly bus from Hanoi that can stop in Ninh Binh on request. From there it is a grim 20 hr ride to Vientiane.

Hue – Sleeper bus 300.000 dong, leaves at 9pm. It comes from Hanoi and stops at Ninh Binh on request. You can book at the bus station which is at walking distance from the train station, or at your hotel in most cases. Many accidents reported but budget travellers still choose this option. Not recommended even by the locals, unless they want to sell you a ticket. Trains take 12h and leave at 8.32, 11.17 and 21.12, cost spans between 290.000 and 700.000 dong depending on seat/sleeper type.

Hue travel guide by First Choice

Posted by editor on 1:50 am in Blog | Comments Off on Hue travel guide by First Choice

Introduction

Hue is in the central region of Vietnam and is the former imperial capital. Hue is intimately connected to the imperial Nguyễn Dynasty, based in Hue, who ruled from 1802 to 1945, when the Emperor Bao Dai abdicated in favor of Ho Chi Minh’s revolutionary government. The city went through tough times during the Vietnam War, when it was conquered by the Viet Cong and held for 24 days, during which the VC slaughtered around 3,000 people suspected of sympathizing with the South, being a highschool graduate or Christian. In retaking the city American forces initially didn’t use artillery or air support to avoid damaging ancient buildings but due to heavy casualties these restrictions were relaxed and the city largely destroyed.

Orientation

Hue is easy to get a grip on. The main landmark is the Perfume River (Hương Giang), with the old city and the Citadel on the north side and the newer city, including most hotels and restaurants, on the south side. Much of the riverside has wisely been done up as a pleasant promenade and park dotted with bizarre sculptures. The tombs are located further south in the outskirts of Hue.

Climate

Hue’s weather is infamously bad: the Truong Son Mountains just to the south seem to bottle up all the moisture, so it’s usually misty, drizzly or outright rainy. Things get even wetter than usual in the winter rainy season, especially from February to the end of March. To be safe, bring along an umbrella any time of year. Don’t forget to bring a sweater and jacket in winter as it can get rather chilly, with temperatures falling to as low as 8 degrees at night. Alternatively, when the sun makes an appearance for a day or a week, it can reach 30 degrees.

It’s usually quite dry during the summer months, when the temperature can reach the high 30’s. Summer rains can be heavy but brief, and often arrive unexpectedly, whereas February rains can last for weeks. The best description for the weather in Hue would be “changeable”.

How to get there

By plane

Hue’s international “Phu Bai” airport fields daily flights to and from Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, but flights are quite often disrupted by poor weather during the rainy season (Mid October – Mid December). The majority of flights are Vietnam Airlines but Jetstar Vietnam also runs a flight or two from Ho Chi Minh City and once a day to Hanoi. The airport is 15 kilometers away from the city center and should cost no more than 180,000VND by taxi (30 minute ride). There is also a bus that will take you into the city & even drop you at your hotel for 50,000VND. You can buy a ticket in the arrival hall of the airport. The airport facility is currently undergoing renovations and will be closed until 13 June, 2011.

Danang‘s airport, only two hours away by car now that the Hai Van Tunnel is open, is busier, and has more connections. As of February 2012, a one-way taxi from Da Nang airport to Hue can be negotiated down to USD 45 (large car) or USD 40 (small car); using the meter, cost for a large car is about 1,200,000 dong.

Phu Bai is expected to close for eight months for runway repair in 2013. The airport will be closed from March 20 to November 20, according to a document released by the Ministry of Transport. During this period, tourists who wish to travel to Hue by air will have to use Da Nang Airport.

By train

Several trains a day to Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Danang (4 hours) etc. The journey down south through Lang Co and the Hai Van Pass is particularly scenic, and from Danang you can take a taxi or motorbike to Hoi An.

Train from Hanoi to Hue

A second-class sleeper from Hanoi to Hue on the SE1 (leaving Hanoi at 19h00) cost 710.000 on October 25th, 2012 (for a hard-sleeper, 6-person cabin, middle bunk ; bottom bunk is a little more pricey while top bunk is the cheapest).

A second-class sleeper ticket from Ho Chi Minh City on the much superior ‘express’ SE2-SE6 train to Hue costs between 588,000 & 740,000 dong depending on the level you’re on (1,2 or 3). SE 2 departs at 7.00 PM. Be warned the beds are quite hard, as there is not much of a matress (about half an inch thick), and it is placed over a plastic bench/seat. You can get other train types, but the little extra you pay is worth it several times over. It offers a wonderful travel experience. The traveler gets to sit, lie and sleep in a very small cabin for 23 hours with five other people (nearly always Vietnamese), eat four plain but tasty and filling Vietnamese meals, listen to a fine selection of Vietnamese pop songs on the PA, and see some incomparably beautiful countryside, particularly in the last section between Da Nang and Hue. It’s an excellent way to see the country and meet ordinary Vietnamese, who are unfailingly friendly and helpful, even to travelers who have not bothered to learn a word of their language. The trip is especially recommended if you like babies.

Buy your tickets at the train station, it can be worth your effort. Hotels often over charge by doubling the prices (at least US$80 for softsleeper), often using excuses like it’s high season or that they have to buy it at the black market. On the other hand it saves you dealing with the surly station staff.

Train station is about 40min walk from most backpacker hotels (in Pham Ngu Lao) but it is straight.

By bus

Public buses from all the bigger cities (including frequent services to Hanoi and Saigon) connect to the main bus stations (Bến Xe Phía Nam for the south and Bến Xe Phía Bắc for the north). Most open tour buses include Hue in their itinerary, connecting to Hoi An or Da Nang to the south (4-6 hours) and Hanoi to the north (13-16 hours). The overnight Hanoi route is popular with locals, but beware of motion sickness among them.

Regular buses run between Da Nang and Hue (around 50,000 VND).

Sinh Café, 7 Nguyen Tri Phuong St. Direct buses from Hoi An cost US$4 and leave twice daily: the 08:00-12:00 service stops at the Marble Mountains and makes the trip in 4 hours, while the 13:30-16:30 service manages the trip in three. Buses to Hanoi depart at 17:30 every day (US$9) with stops in

An Phu 11 Nguyen Tri Phuong. Bus leaves 8.00 AM and 1.30 PM.

To/From Laos

From Vientiane You can book a sleeping or sitting bus for 180,000Kip (sleeping is the same price as sitting) to Hue or continue to Da Nang from the Southern Bus Terminal. The trip takes 15 hours to Hue so the sleeping bus is the better choice. Departure time for just Hue/Da Nang is 7pm although at Vientiene’s southern bus station you’ll also see other options heading south and you could probably take those as well.

You’ll have a couple bathroom stops (bathrooms not necessarily available) and at least 2 or 3 eating stops.

They’ll try to arrive at the Lao Bao border crossing before it opens at 7am. Here is where they’ll collect everyone passports to get stamped out of Laos. Everyone needs to include a 15,000Kip fee (foreigners may end up getting asked for 30,000Kip) so have that ready in your passport ahead of time. You’ll also have several ladies asking if you need to change any money. They’ll come in the bus or roam around the bus stop. Be careful and shrewd with them. If you just hand them some kip without establishing what rate your getting or not even bother to count how much you gave you’ll end up with a lousy 50% or 1:1 rate so you’ve lost half your cash! (Probably best not to exchange anything as you’ll have no chance to actually buy anything with your Dong until you reach your destination. However, you might no be able to exchange your Kip when you’re in Hue. So plan ahead!)

Meanwhile, as this is going on you’ll be served some Vietnam coffee. All meals and the coffee break should be included in your ticket price and then you have to pay for anything additional that you order.

Once you reach Hue you can get dropped off before the actual Hue bus station and maybe save yourself having to ride into town on a hired motor bike. (Oct. 2010)

From Pakse VIP (not really) buses leave at 8am arriving in Hue 12-13 hours later. Local buses leave Pakse in the evening. Tickets can be bought from travel agents in central Pakse. Be prepared for a no air-con ride.

How to get around

By taxi

Like other Vietnamese cities, Hue is flooded with cyclos and motorbikes, as well as a few meter taxis. Taxi drivers are usually honest, but make sure they turn the meter on: trips start at 15,000 dong for the first 2km and tick upward at 11,500 dong/km. Some meters run incorrectly (showing up to 10 times the distance actually travelled), so ensure you have a rough idea of the distance to you destination. If the meter is running too quickly, at the destination pay an estimate of the fair price and insist on calling the police if the driver will not accept the estimated non-meter price. The driver will back down. A metered trip out see two tombs, with waiting time, should come to around 300,000 dong (US$18).

With cyclos and motorbikes, all of the usual disclaimers apply: negotiate a price ahead of time, and don’t be afraid to walk away if they’re asking too much. No trip in Hue should cost more than 20,000 dong. Many of the motorbike drivers double as pot dealers, and you may be offered to buy marijuana along with your ride.

By bike

Hire a motorbike for 100,000 dong locally. Fuel costs 25000 Dong per litre. Correct as at Feb 20th 2013.Join the locals as they swarm across the bridges and along the main roads at a leisurely pace. If you’re not familiar with motorbikes you may want to practice on smaller, less busy roads first. Gas stations can be found at some of the major intersections in the city – ask the person you are renting from to mark any they know on your map.Note that a map is a Foreign concept- nobody understands them, NOBODY. Make sure your motorbike comes with a helmet, as you can be fined otherwise. You can also buy helmets for 50,000-125,000 VND. Helmets priced at 50,000 will not offer much protection in a crash – these are sold so people can avoid fines more than to offer real protection.

New arrivals in Vietnam should familiarize themselves with the way traffic works in Hue. Take a motorbike taxi to get an idea how to fit into the traffic.

Cycling is also a good option, with plenty of bikes available from 25,000-30,000dong/day (March 2012).

For motorbike with driver, small hotels have connections to freelancers. You may be lucky to have an English speaking (a bit mumbled but knowledgeable) guide/driver/US army veteran for all 6 tombs (the 7th is inaccessible) including those locked and forgotten for lack of tourist interests plus three temples and the emperor’s arena for one day and have extra time in the early afternoon for a beer and some Vietnamese do-it-yourself spring rolls and the famous Hue pancakes for just $10. The DIY spring rolls and pancakes are not free though but they are the best for only 45,000 dong.

By cyclo

A cyclo is the local versions of the trishaw, with the passenger in front of the cyclist. Be prepared to haggle for reasonable prices as cyclo drivers tend to quote indiscriminately. It’s a good idea to agree absolutely on your price before you go. Also make sure this is a return price, and not one-way. Of course, if you want to change your itinerary after you’re already on the way, you should discuss how this might affect the agreed price with your cyclo driver right away. Otherwise, you may get a rude surprise when you arrive at your final destination, and the driver tries to charge you an exorbitant amount. Be aware that while most of the cyclo drivers in Hue are fair, and can be quite helpful, there are a few who are very unscrupulous. If you agree on the price as “100”, make it very clear that you are agreeing on 100,000 Dong, and not 100 US dollars! Many cyclo drivers also act as pimps, and may offer you local women (starting at $10/hr).

On foot

Hue is quite compact, so you can reach most of the hotels, restaurants, and the Citadel easily on foot. Mr. Cu at Mandarin Cafe has prepared a free walking tour brochure & map. Make sure to stop by 24 Tran Cao Van St to pick up your free map (and enjoy some delicious banana pancakes). You’ll need to arrange transportation to reach the emperors’ tombs, though.

What to see

Imperial Citadel (Đại Nội)

Courtyard of Ngo Mon, with the Thai Hoa Palace in the background

The former imperial seat of government and Hue’s prime attraction, this is a great sprawling complex of temples, pavilions, moats, walls, gates, shops, museums and galleries, featuring art and costumes from various periods of Vietnamese history. Thanks to its size, it is also delightfully peaceful – a rare commodity in Vietnam.

The citadel was badly knocked about during fighting between the French and the Viet Minh in 1947, and again in 1968 during the Tet Offensive, when it was shelled by the Viet Cong and then bombed by the Americans. As a result, some areas are now only empty fields, bits of walls, and an explanatory plaque. Other buildings are intact, though, and a few are in sparkling condition. For the rest, while restoration has been going on for 20 years, there is still quite a long way to go. Allow several hours to see it properly. Entry 105,000 dong (April 2013) (for foreigners, less for locals of course) and it is open 06:30-17:00. Inside you can pay $1.50 (30,000dong) to dress up in the King or Queen’s clothing and sit on the throne for a fun photo opportunity.

Ngọ Môn. The main southern entrance to the city, built in 1833 by Minh Mang. The central door, and the bridge connecting to it, were reserved exclusively for the emperor. Climb up to the second floor for a nice view of the exquisite courtyard. The Ngo Mon Gate is the principal entrance to the Imperial Enclosure. The Emperor would address his officials and the people from the top of this gate.

Thái Hòa Palace. The emperor’s coronation hall, where he would sit in state and receive foreign dignitaries.

Trường Sanh Residence. Translated as the “Palace of Longevity”, the Truong Sanh Palace was the residence of King Tu Duc’s mother, Empress Tu Du, under the Nguyen Dynasty in the 19th century. It lies in Tu Cam Thanh, one of the two major parts of the Hue Citadel. Currently under renovation, the project, estimated to cost almost VND 30 billion (roughly US $1.8 million), includes the restoration of Lach Dao Nguyen, the Palace’s protective moat, decorative man-made rock formations and mountains, bonsai gardens, and the palace gate. The restoration is expected to be completed in 2009, but this is doubtful. While not officially open to the public, it is possible to enter the grounds and should be seen, as even in it’s overgrown state, it’s beauty is recognizable.

Forbidden Purple City. Directly behind Thai Hoa Palace, but it was almost entirely destroyed during the 1968 Tet Offensive and only the rather nondescript Mandarin Palaces on both sides remain.

Hue Jungle Crevice. When the Viet Cong briefly over ran Hue they rounded up 3000 of Hue’s citizens and officials. Fearing the prisoners would slow them down in hot retreat, they tied them up and pushed the people over the cliff into the crevice.

Tombs of the Emperors

The other great attractions in Hue are the Tombs of the Emperors, which are located along the Perfume River south of the city. They are accessible by taxi or bike from the city, but the best way to see them is to hire a river boat and go for a cruise. Plan to make a full day of it.

Group tours usually cost about US$2, which includes an excellent (really!) lunch aboard the boat, but does not include admission to the tombs (80,000 dong apiece for foreigners – ensure you count your change carefully if paying by large denomination note as short-changing can occur) or the cost of a motorbike from the wharf to each tomb. If you’re with a group, the price should be set by the tour company at roughly 25,000 dong for each round-trip. Choose a tour with as few stops as possible. Some companies lard up their itineraries with visits to silk farms and a few pagodas, promising to fit everything in neatly, however tour companies aren’t noted for their time management, and you’ll wind up rushed along and frustrated for at least one of the tombs.

If you’re travelling on your own, boat hire or a motorbike and driver should cost somewhere around US$20, again not including tomb admissions. All of the tombs can be walked to from the wharfs in anywhere from ten minutes to half an hour. The paths are mostly obvious, but you still probably shouldn’t try it without a map or a terrific sense of direction. Most of the tombs are open from 7:30AM or 8AM to 5:30PM, depending on the season; note that the tour groups arrive around 10AM and leave around 3PM in order to get back before dinner, so plan accordingly to avoid the crowds. You’ll be glad you did.

The tombs are also easily reached by bicycle, although there is a shortage of good maps of how to reach them. Ask your hotel about bicycle rentals and maps, and be cautious on the crowded and potentially potholed roads. This is probably the most inexpensive (and enjoyable, if you enjoy cycling) way to reach the tombs. Along the way you will meet many darling Vietnamese children who like to practice their English by shouting “F— you!” and other English expletives at passing foreigners.

The tombs themselves are worth the cost and effort. They mostly date from the late 19th or early 20th centuries, when the Emperors had been reduced to figureheads under French colonial rule and had little else to do than build themselves elaborate tombs. The finest of them are the Tomb of Tu Duc, the Tomb of Minh Mang and the Tomb of Khai Dinh, all of which are excellent examples of Vietnamese Buddhist aesthetics and architecture. The older ones have been allowed to crumble into picturesque semi-ruin, although some are now being restored.

In order of age:

Tomb of Gia Long (20km) – the most remote of the tombs, quiet and fallen into disrepair as Gia Long, the first Nguyen emperor, was notoriously despotic.

Tomb of Minh Mang (12km) -Possibly the best of the lot, situated inside a wall and covering several hectares. Woodland and water make it a very relaxing place to be- Minh Mang was definitely a country boy at heart! The main buildings are arranged on an east-west axis, including a courtyard surrounded by warrior statues and several temples and pavilions. Several bridges cross two lakes before the axis ends before the vast burial mound (which is circled by a fence). If you’re dropped off by boat, note that there is a stretch of souvenir sellers to navigate during the short walk to the mausoleum entrance.Same goes for the car/coach/motorbike park, but they are only trying hard to earn a crust.Bike park is only 5000 dong.

Tomb of Thieu Tri (8km) – built in 1848. This Emperor and his wife were the most revered and loved throughout the country. Although he only ruled for 7 years, he was the most sorely missed. In a time of strife and economic problems, he was careful with the country’s Treasury and made sure to improve his people’s living standards. His last will was that he be placed in a tomb that was not extragavant, parting ways with the tradition of creating lavish final resting places for their Emperors.

Tomb of Tu Duc (7km) – Constructed from 1864 to 1867, the complex served as a second Imperial City where the Emperor went for “working vacations”. Tu Duc’s contemplative nature and poetic spirit is reflected in the landscape and arrangement of the 50 buildings that at one time stood here. A vast, sprawling complex set around a lake, with wooden pavilions and tombs and temples dedicated to wives and favored courtesans (Tu Duc had 104 to choose from). The courtesans’ quarters are in ruins, with only outlines and crumbling walls left amid waves of overgrown grass and silence, but other areas are stunningly well-preserved. The Emperor’s tomb itself, tucked away in the back, is surprisingly modest – the final courtyard is nearly empty with just a stone coffin in the middle. (The tombs of Empress Le Thien Anh and Emperor Kien Phuc, who briefly ruled in 1884, are also located here.) Try to dodge the crowds for this one.

Tomb of Khai Dinh (10km) – dating from 1925, this is the best preserved of the lot and, while comparatively compact, quite grand at first sight. While it follows the classic formula of forecourts leading up to the tomb of the Emperor, complete with statues in attendance, architecture buffs will spot some European influences. The tomb itself is completely over the top with incredibly detailed and opulent mosaics of cavorting dragons. Try to get to this one early, as it is a favorite stop for Asian tour-bus groups. Also, you may want to leave the tourist path and head up the hill on the right side of the tomb, where a small temple stands. You will have a great view of the tomb and the valley it faces.

Other sites

Thien Mu Pagoda (4km) – perched on a bluff over the river and housing some very fine gold and silver Buddha images. The Thien Mu Pagoda overlooks the Perfume River and is the official symbol of the city of Hue. Thien Mu means “elderly celestial woman”, and refers to an old legend about the founding of the pagoda. Brimming with opportunities for great photos.

Phu Bai Airport is a must-see if you are interested in the war. The airport was a dirt strip during the Indochina War. Then, during the Vietnam War, an American garrison was assigned there and built up the airport with concrete bunkers, a paved airstrip, and a few other luxuries. The airport was vital in keeping Hue supplied during the Eastertide Offensive of 1972 when “Charlie jumped the line”. The airport retains the original buildings built by the Americans; however, they have been retrofitted for use by the Vietnamese.

What to do

Hue day tour – a.k.a City Tour, it includes the Citadel, 3 tombs (Tu Duc, Khai Dink & Minh Mang),a garden house and a Perfume River cruise stopping for a look-see at Thien Mu Pagoda, from thence a short ride to the Tourist Boat docks where the tour terminates. A very value for money package, at USD10 ( from Jade Hotel). For the same itinerary, some charge up to 13USD, possibly better food offerings. Entrance cost is not included and money will be asked in the bus (80,000VND Sept 2012) for citadel and tombs, 20,000 VND (Sept 2012)for garden house). Thien Mu temple is free. A simple Vietnamese_dishes lunch included. You can chose to only visit some of the places if you want. “Best” tomb is probably last one / Tu Duc.

Hai Van Pass Motorbike Tour- Many tour companies and hostels offer “Top Gear” motorbike tours over the Hai Van pass, through Da Nang and over to Hoi An. For someone who knows how to properly operate a motorbike or scooter this can be a very rewarding experience. Keep in mind that you will usually go through Da Nang at around rush hour in the afternoon, which can be very hectic and potentially dangerous if you are an inexperienced rider. Guided trips will run you $30-40, unguided will be much less than that.

Blind massage – make a valuable contribution to the local community at the institute for the blind,180/1 Phan Boi Chau street (/1 mean’s the buildings are on the left,50 metres down a side road behind 180 on Kiet/Alley) on the right up the hill about 1km past the train tracks (look for a small blue sign with English). 50,000 dong/hour for massage (mine was excellent, jan 2013) and 30,000 dong/hour for steam-bath. All of the staff work and live in this facility, and speak a little English. This is where the locals go. Brilliant experience an a “must do”. You are left for half an hour in a steam room with herbs, followed by a full hour massage.Phone 0543886505.Correct as at Feb 20th 2013.

My An Hot Spring and Spa – 7km from Hue on the way to Thuan An beach. US$3 for foreigners to use the swimming pool and 2 hot spring pools. The water here has a high sulfur content, purported to have health benefits.

Thanh Tan Hot Springs – about 13 km from Hue Center. Similar to My An, but without the odor of sulphur. This site is surrounded by woods, which are pleasant to explore. Has graduated sections. Start with the cool section, and work your way up. The hottest section is actually closed off, as it is too hot to bathe in. There are also private pools for 2 or 4 people, and a swimming pool. There is a tiny restaurant on site. This is also where the local bottled Thanh Tan mineral water comes from.

Ho Chi Minh Museum 6 D Le Loi – Free admission. Contains photos and information on Ho Chi Minh as well as the history of Hue in photographs. Closed on Sunday.

Scams There are several “massage parlors” in town (catering strictly to the tourists) that are less than reputable, where the main attraction seems to be attractive girls flirting and chatting up the customer for a big tip. Don’t bother asking your hotel for a recommendation, they will try to steer you to the one that provides them the biggest kickback. Also, if buying a bus-ticket, shop around and let them know you are looking for the best price. A bus ticket to Ho Chi Minh City runs around $20-$30, but you will hear quotes as high as $80. However, you can expect prices to be somewhat higher around certain holidays, such as Tet, when everyone is trying to get home. Be very clear on the price when you take a cyclo.

Shopping

A traditional industry of Hue is embroidery, and framed embroidery can be purchased in the many stores of the backpacker area of Hue.

Healing the Wounded Heart Shop, 23 Vo Thi Sau Street, ☎ +84 54 3833694, 8am-10pm. A Humanitarian project of the Spiral Foundation. This unique shop sells eco-friendly handicrafts made by disabled artisans in Hue. Many of the products are made from recycled items, including recycled soda can frames, and recycled telephone wire baskets. All net proceeds fund heart surgeries for poor children in the Hue area.

Hope Center, 20 Nhat Le Street, ☎ +t +84 (0) 54 351 1511, 8am-10pm. The Hope Center offers disabled and disadvantaged people a place to learn and work. Garment manufacturing is the mainstay. However, a range of handicraft items are also made. In particular the beautiful hand-woven cloth by A Luoi women is unique in its design and make up. Scarves, hand bags, purses and hand crafted jewellery are for sale. Well worth a visit.

What and where to eat

Hue is famed for its Imperial cuisine, originally prepared for the emperor and his retinue. Although the emphasis is more on presentation than taste, an imperial banquet is well worth trying.

The most famous local dish is bún bò Huế, a noodle soup served with slices of beef and lashings of chili oil. Another tasty local treat is sesame candy (mè xửng), which is peanutty, chewy and quite tasty if fresh, and goes for under 10,000 dong/box.

Nem Lui is a dish of sweet, minced pork around bamboo sticks grilled over hot coals. Banh Khoai is a “pancake” filled with bean sprouts, shrimp and pork. Bun Thit Nuong is delicious barbecued pork served with vegetables and noodles.

Budget

Nina’s Café, 16/34 Nguyen Tri Phuong, small but delicious family restaurant located in a substreet of a substreet. Very affordable and charming and some say, one of the best food locations in south-east asia.

You and Me, 38 Tran Cao Van. This place appears to have dropped in standards or changed hands. Previously recommended, its ‘speciality’ pancakes are now inedible, meat dishes bereft of meat and staff are pushy (they even drop prices to encourage you to take the “fery fery good” (actually fery fery bad) spring rolls. Reasonably priced but still very bad value. Bottled beer is good! Leave it at that.

Bun Bo Hue, 11B Ly Thuong Kiet. (small and very local – far away from river on south bank). This eponymous eatery specializes in its namesake dish. 25000 dong gets you a bowl with a generous, mouth-meltingly soft (if fatty) cutlet plopped on top. Others: Bún Mụ Rơi (Nguyễn Chí Diễu st), Bún Cây Đa (Nguyễn Sinh Cung st), Bún Nguyễn Du (Nguyễn Du st)

Bun Cam, 38 Tran Cao Van st, Very popular with locals, but only opens for the early morning, about 6AM until they run out of soup. This is the real thing, local style, not adapted for the Western palate. Try it with their chili sauce, also a local specialty that shouldn’t be missed. The lady sitting behind the soup cauldron is Cam, the cook and namesake of the business. She only speaks Vietnamese, but just look in the pot, like the locals do, and point at what you want. The price varies with how many different things you choose.

Bún Cha Hà Nôi, 20 Nguyen Tri Phuong. This family-run restaurant only serves original HaNoi-style Bun Cha: a dish with pork spring rolls, some meatballs, cabbage and carrot sauce with hot peppers, and bundles of noodles to dip in said sauce. Opened April 2011 and the owners are very welcoming to foreigners. As with all Vietnamese dishes, the hungry may have to order twice but with a price of 25.000 dong, that ain’t too bad. Nice atmosphere while keeping the genuine atmosphere of a local restaurant.

Banh Khoai “Hong Mai”, Dinh Tien Hoang – Nguyen Bieu corner Str. (Inside the Purple Forbidden City) is known as the best Banh Khoai(Pancake) in Hue. This is a family restaurant. Nem Lui (minced pork grilled with lemon grass on coal) and Banh Beo also recommended. Bánh Khoái Lạc Thiện (Trần Hưng Đạo st).

Banh Khoai – ‘Hạnh’, 11 Phó Đức Chinh (small street between Ben Nghe and Tran Quang Khai), ☎ 054-833552. This is a family restaurant where the locals go to eat Hue specialities, cheap and very good food!. Ban Khoai – 18,000 dong, Nem Lui 30,000 dong.

Brown eyes restaurant 1/34 Nguyen Tri Phuong – Tel: 054 832572 . You need cheap food and big plates. Go to Brown Eyes and you will be satisfied for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Suitable for young people. Changed name, and now bad service.

La Carambole, 19 Pham Ngu Lao, ☎ 054-3810491. This place looks like a tourist trap… and it is. Reports suggest that it may once have been great but it now seems as if the chef inherited the menu but has no culinary experience. Serves French food, Vietnamese food and pizza. All of which are subpar. In April 2012 food here was actually pretty good, portions small but not bad prices for tourist area.

Friendly restaurant, D Pham Ngu Lao, an excellent choice with charming staff and a wide range of Vietnamese and European food. Opened in 2005 and owned by a Vietnamese family, Friendly restaurant is in the town’s centre.

Mandarin Café, 24 Tran Cao Van. Having been forced to move many times,the owner, Mr. Cu has purchased property and built on this new location to ensure that he won’t haveto move again anytime soon. The owner is also a good photographer and many of his pictures hang on the wall. The food here is consistently good with local & Western favorites. Try his banana pancakes. They are as good today as they were 10 years ago.

Phuong Nam Cafe, 38 Tran Cao Van – Tel: 054 3849317 is a nice little restaurant with decent but very cheap food and excellent fruit shakes.

Banh Bao, in the corner of Ben Nghe and Nguyen Tri Phuong. is an street vendor that sells wonderful Banh Bao 5000 dong.

Hot Tuna, 37 Vo Thi Sau (Corner of Vo Thi Sau & Chu Van An) – Tel: 84.54.3616464 is a nice restaurant, friendly staff and our meals were excellent. Recommend the chicken breast with mushroom sauce and mashed potatoes, 80,000 Dong and well worth every bit of it. The best I have had in Asia. Duck also quite nice. Meals range from 40,000 (sandwiches) to 160,000 (fish) and have lots of options in the mid range.

Mid-range

Hue Waterland Bar-Restaurant, 35 Chu Van An St. Tel : 054.3844844. Dining, lunch, breakfast. They serve Vietnam cuisine and Western food. Such as Bun Bo Hue, Banh Loc, Banh Beo, Banh Nam, Nem Lui, burgers, sandwiches, pizza, spaghetti, spring rolls, fish, shrimp, pork, noodle, rice. In tourist center, just few minutes to Perfume River. Garden view with bamboon tree and candle.

Japanese Restaurant, 34 Tran Cao Van, ☎ 054-834457. This Japanese restaurant serves excellent food for a relatively good price. 30,000-50,000 dong.

Japanese Restaurant Jass/ Children’s home, 12 Chu Van An, ☎ 054-3825146. 18h30-21h30, mon-sat. Social Profit Japanese restaurant with outstanding flavors.  edit

Không Gian Xưa, Điện Biên Phủ st. A nice place to enjoy delicious local cuisine in a well designed traditional style building.

Ong Tao, 31 Chu Van An. 054.823031. Excellent traditional Hue food, try the meat rolls (wrapped in mint leaves) or the fried spring rolls -incredibly crunchy-. Not too crowded, kind of hidden in a first floor. Don’t miss it. All dishes (US$1-7) have small and big versions, so you can order a few.

Paradise Garden Restaurant (Nha Hang Vuon Thien Dang), 17 Le Loi Street, Hue (in front of Saigon Morin Hotel), ☎ 838485. 07.00 – 23.00. Expensive, nice settings, not very authentic but still good- cheap by normal standards obviously. The live music is good. 1-5 USD.

Splurge

Tinh Gia Vien, 20/3 Le Thanh Ton, tel. +84-54-522243. Wonderful old Hue-style nha vuon garden villa on a quiet side street, formerly the residence of a princess, converted by a bonsai enthusiast into a restaurant serving Imperial cuisine. There are three set menus at US$15/20/25 (“big”, “bigger” or “biggest”, according to the menu) but all sets have 11 courses and are guaranteed to fill you up. The food wins full points for presentation, but is unfortunately somewhat toned down for the foreign palate.

Ancient Hue Royal Cuisine and Gallery : One of the biggest restaurants in Hue. Prices are good, food is excellent, extremely clean. All is served by a professional staff, international experienced chef. It is also a complex of ancient houses among huge garden area, which makes you feel comfortable once you come here. Also, the food carvings are memorable, and the service is outstanding. Expect to pay between $30 per person, cheapest wine was $25 a bottle and beers started at $3.50 rather steep when you are paying $1 for a beer anywhere else. Well worth a visit, recommend getting a taxi there as quite difficult to find even with google maps.

Vegetarian

The people of Hue have a strong tradition of eating vegetarian food, so vegetarian restaurants are more common in Hue than in the rest of Vietnam. On the 1st and 15th of every lunar month, vegetarian restaurants are packed full of patrons for dinner and it may prove difficult to find a seat. Vegetarian restaurants are the cheapest places to eat, after street vendors.

Bo De, D Le Loi. Run by the Huong Giang travel company. Extremely popular with locals. Serves delicious vegetarian appetizers and entrees. Expect to fill yourself for US$2-3/person. While the restaurant serves truly wonderful cheap vegetarian dishes, for some reason the staff is very unfriendly with foreigners. Half of the dishes listed on the menu are not available.

Lien Hoa, D Le Quy Don. In the grounds of the Lien Hoa pagoda, across from the football stadium. Monks and nuns frequent this restaurant during lunch. A small shop near the door sells Vietnamese language Buddhist texts, prayer beads and icons.

Com Chay (vegetarian rice) Is near the River on on the ‘newer side’ it has simple, but good and cheap vegetarian meals.

Tinh Tam (or “calm soul”) located at 12 Chu Van An tel.823572. Answering the question “Who would Buddha rip off?”, this Buddhist restaurant in the backpacker district has a little scam going. There are two menus- an English one with strange dishes at high prices, and a Vietnamese one with normal Vietnamese dishes at normal prices. If you try to order off the Vietnamese menu, the owner will claim those dishes are not available. If you do succeed in ordering a Vietnamese dish, the owner will bring out an unidentifiable dish and claim it is what you ordered (going so far as to claim a plate of noodles and tomatoes was “pho”) at 4-5 times the price. If you complain, the owner suddenly doesn’t speak English. You can find plenty of unhappy customer reviews on the internet of this place. To avoid. Price: Vietnamese: 5000d / Other races: 40,000-50,000d.

Quang Tinh, 91 Vo Thi Sau, in the backpacker area. 6am-10pm. Very simple place, menu of noodles, rice, and so on, starting at 10,000d. Also sells cigarettes and hard alcohol.

Where to drink

B4 Bar-Café, 75 D Ben Nghe. A charming Belgian-Vietnamese owned bar, with a welcoming interior and free pool.

Brown Eyes Chillout Bar-Club, 56 Chu Van An, Hue, ☎ 054.827494. Happy hour(s) 5PM-10PM. Live DJ, free pool table, and a good vibe. Not far from Pham Ngu Lao, but they offer to pay for taxis from hotels for parties of four persons or more. Stays open till the last ones pass out! No cover.

Café on Thu Wheels, 1/2 D Nguyen Tri Phuong. It’s a little bar owned by the charming lady Thu.

DMZ Bar & Café, 44 D Le Loi. Stays open late.Very expensive drinks.

Why Not, 21 Vo Thi Sau, ☎ 054-824793.

Sinh To place, 30 Ben Nghe. Shop for drinking ice tea, coffee, smoothies and juices. Local prices (they are published on a board). Try Rau Má juice: when available it is meant to be very good for your health. Rau má (centella asiatica juice) 6000 dong, smoothies (sinh to) 8000 dong.

Vy Da Xua, 131 Nguyen Sinh Cung St (east on Le Loi, about 1 mile past the causeway). Enjoy a delicious cup of Vietnamese coffee, or any beverage, in this beautiful setting. The traditional beam house is surrounded by a garden and small stream where you can hear birds and restful music. The perfect place to meet friends.

Mercury café, Ben Nghe 42, ☎ 0543843392. Big modern tavern to meet, have a drink or have some vietnamese or italian food. Light, colors, contemporary setting. Front terrace and quiet back-patio. Western music. Gay-friendly.

Oasis Bar, 42/4 Le Loi Street (Opposite the Converse shop, at the end of the small alleyway). A relaxing beach bar in the middle of the city. Escape the busy streets to our ‘oasis’ and chill out in hammocks or sit on cushions on the sand. Shaded by palm trees, its the perfect place to relax and enjoy a refreshing drink and read a book (also for sale) or play a game of free pool. Later, enjoy a game of beer pong, dance to our Western DJ and enjoy our nightly happy hours (6-9pm) and drinks specials (9-11pm). Eat one of our specialty burgers with a fresh fruit cocktail and all with friendly staff and cheap prices.

Coffee

There are lots of small cafés (quán cafe) in Hue. Going out for coffee is a favorite local pastime. Most Hue people wouldn’t think of starting the morning without meeting friends over a glassful. Most coffee shops open for business in the morning, close down from about 10:30 or so until late afternoon, then open again for the after-work and evening crowds. Do try the local style, iced, either with condensed milk, or black, which means with sugar. In the South, the iced coffee comes in a tall glass with lots of ice and lots of syrupy milk. In the Central area, the glass is much smaller, and the coffee is usually stronger. If you don’t look Vietnamese, you may be served a weaker coffee, or if you order cafe nong (hot), they will also give you an extra glass of hot water to pour in. Do try your coffee first, to taste it the way the locals like it. Something like an iced, sweet espresso, with chocolaty overtones. Generally 6,000d-8,000d for Vietnamese people; 10,000d+ for foreigners.

Sidewalk Coffee – Opposite 30 Bach Dang st. Go local and try some delicious early morning coffee with chocolaty overtones, hot or iced, while watching river life on the canal. The woman who brews it up also offers banh mi, french bread with your choice of fillings. Another woman shares the same patch of sidewalk and sells very reasonably priced banh canh, a popular local breakfast soup. A real plus here is the cleanliness. The coffee glasses are spotless! Open from about 5:30 a.m. until 9 or 10, when the coffee and food are sold out. After your coffee, you can continue walking along Bach Dang to reach 2 famous local pagodas, both nearby.

Where to stay

There are plenty of cheap traveller hotels and mid-market hotels in Hue, as well as a couple of expensive giants. The largest cluster is around the short lane of Pham Ngu Lao (including Le Loi, Hung Vuong, Chu Van An, Nguyen Cong Tru). It’s not quite as big (or backpackery) as its Ho Chi Minh City namesake, but still a definite tourist magnet. Across the river, near the citadel there are a few budget hotels on and around Dinh Tien Hoang.

Budget

Canary Hotel, 37 Nguyen Cong Tru, ☎ 84.054.3839699. All rooms are air-conditioned, all equipped with 32-inch LCD cable TV, shower with bathtub, and mini-bar. Some of its facilities are bar and restaurant, Internet room, boutique and souvenir shop, and laundry service. Rates on official website start at USD 15.65.

Phong Lan, 12/66 Le Loi Street, ☎ 054.3826255. Very nice and clean Hotel located in a small, calm side street near Pham Ngu Lao. All rooms have balcony, AC, own bathroom. Rooms for 2 to 4 persons. Free wi-fi, bicycle and motorbike rental available. Staff is very friendly and speaks good english. 10-20$.

Hue Backpacker’s Hostel, 10 Pham Ngu Lao Street, (info@huebackpackershostel.com). checkout: 11am. From the makers of the ever popular Hanoi Backpacker’s Hostel. Hue Backpacker’s is the newest addition to Pham Ngu Lao and is rapidly becoming the spot to stay and hang out. Cheap accommodation, very clean, spacious balconies to relax and read a book, and they’ve got an elevator for your packs. Free Internet, continental breakfast included, WiFi, and super friendly helpful staff. The downstairs area is also a bar and restaurant serving arguably the best burgers in Hue and other western delights. From US$7.

Phuoc An (DMZ Hotel), 1A Pham Ngu Lao Street (right across the street from Hue Backpackers, go down Le Loi until you get to Century Hotel and Pham Ngu Lao is opposite the hotel. Phuoc An is just on the left), ☎ +84 54 382 6831 (phuocan_dmzhotel@yahoo.com.vn). checkout: 12pm. Right across the street from Hue Backpacker’s Hostel. Phuoc An is a very clean, very friendly hotel. WiFi is available and fast. The rooms are spacious and the beds are soft and quite comfortable. The staff handles motorbike rentals and laundry. They also serve food. It’s a much cheaper alternative to it’s nearby competitors and you get better quality for the price. Since it’s right on Pham Ngu Lao, it’s close to Hue’s nightlife. US$12 for a double room.

Waterland hotel.add : 35/42 Nguyen Cong Tru.st.Huecity .Tel : (+84.54)3935435 / 3935735 .Email : info@waterlandhotel.com .Website: www.waterlandhotel.com .Waterland Hotel is aBoutique Hotel located on Nguyen Cong Tru street, just a minute’s walk to the famous Perfume River. It offers a modern and diverse range of facilities and services. All the rooms in the hotel have wooden floors and are equipped with IDD telephone, air-conditioning, cable TV, refrigerator, bathroom, (bath-tub and shower), hair-dryer, coffee and tea making facilities, private computer with ADSL for free.

Amigo Hotel, 66/3 Le Loi Street, ☎ +84 54 3838006 (amigohotel@vnn.vn, fax: +84 54 3838005). Tucked away find in the heart of the guesthouse/cheaper district.Very good location,opposite side of river to the Citadel,v.close to Hue Backpackers Hostel and DMZ bar.friendly staff, very clean and modern rooms at 300,000 for a double Feb 20th 2013. Free WiFi(works in the room) and PCs available for guest use. Air-con. Sat TV. Laundry service at 20,000 dong per kilo. Restaurant downstairs does ok food reasonably priced. US$13-25.

Bamboo Hotel, 61 Hung Vuong, ☎ +84-54-3828345. Good Hotel. The staff is friendly, the rooms are clean and neat. There is free internet available. From US$10.

Bao Son Hotel, 39 Nguyen Cong Tru, ☎ 84.54.3827189. Clean, new and well kept with friendly staff.wifi. tv cable. Air conditioning and fans in every room. Laundry available. From US$ 10.

Binh Duong I Hotel, 17/34 Nguyen Tri Phuong Alley, ☎ 054-382-9990. Aircon, hot water & satellite TV included. Popular with Japanese tourists. Friendly and helpful staff. Some rooms have bath-tubs and/or private balcony. From US$10. Dorms are $4 (84k dong).

Halo, 10A/66 D Le Loi (up an alley coming off the main road, where there is an array of other guest houses – there’s a small sign for it along with some others at the alley’s entrance). Spotless rooms, spacious, with large bathrooms and TV. There is a balcony to sit at night, and it’s close to all the nightlife in Hue. Doubles 160,000 dong / US$10.

Mimosa Guesthouse, Le Loi, ☎ 054.828068. friendly, quiet location in a backpacker hotel alley off Le Loi. From US$4.

Minh Hieu Hotel, 3 Chu Van An, ☎ 054.828725. Family-run hotel named after the wild urchin who’ll make his displeasure known if you spend too long on the Internet-ready computer downstairs, thereby keeping him from online puzzle games. The rooms are spotlessly clean, with satellite TV, hot water, and mini-fridges; each floor has a balcony, and it’s not too loud outside. Breakfast is available for US$1. From US$10.

Sports Hotel, 15 Pham Ngu Lao Street. Nice cheap 2-star hotel located on the main tourist hangout. Surprisingly clean and big spacious rooms and not far from the river. From US$10.

Valentine hotel, Number7, lane 64 Nguyen Cong Tru street, ☎ +84543817665 (valentinehotel@gmail.com, fax: +84543817898). check-in: 12p.m; check-out: 12 p.m. usd12.  edit

Lam Bao Long Hotel, 80 Le Loi St, ☎ 054.3822804. check-in: 8.00 AM; check-out: 12.00 PM. Has 15 non smoking rooms, air conditioning, bathrobes, daily newspaper, desk, hair dryer. 12.00 USD.  edit

Mid-range

Holiday (Diamond) Hotel, 6/14 Nguyen Cong Tru. Exceptionally good value. The spotless, air-conditioned rooms ($20-35) are well-furnished with modern amenities, and include lockable wardrobes. The included breakfast is substantial. The staff are very attentive, and will learn and try to remember your name using memory-training tricks. They will warmly welcome you back after each foray outside, and provide you with free drinks (lemon juice, corn-water) every time you enter, and whenever you sit in the lobby. The nearby Jade Hotel (17 Nguyen Thai Hoc) has the same ownership so includes the same standard of staff-training in simpler rooms ($15-20). Book a few days ahead (at either hotel) and they will pick you up from the train station.

Hanh Dat Hotel, 15 Pham Van Dong St. Vy Da, Thua Thien Hue, ☎ 84 54 3898486. Rooms with air-conditioning, wi-fi anternet access and 32-inch LCD TV with satellite/ cable channels. Facilities and services are restaurant, business center, fax and photocopying services. From USD 25.

Asia Hotel. Opened only in December 2004, but despite the token modern TV, the fittings seem much older. The rooms are well enough equipped though and the rooftop restaurant and pool have nice views. Rooms from a slightly overpriced US$30, including a decent buffet breakfast.  edit

New Star Hotel, 36 Chu Van An Str, Phu Hoi Ward, ☎ 84-0914.091447. It offers Deluxe Room, Family Suite and Superior Room all equipped with air conditioning, balcony/deck, cable television, CD player, coffee/tea maker, internet connection, minibar, private toilet and bath, safe and telephone. Some of its facilities and services are swimming pool, restaurant, massage service and airport transfer.

Orchid Hotel. This hotel feels like a 5-star establishment with very professional and personable staff. Clean, spacious, and beautifully designed rooms. Double rooms US$35 (27 Euros), including a decent buffet breakfast. They picked me up from the train station for free and offered me use of a motorbike for free. My bed was huge.

Park View Hotel Hue, 9 Ngo Quyen, ☎ +(84-54) 837382. Park View Hotel is a four star hotel in the center of the city, near the Perfume River. It’s a 10-minute walk to Hue Citadel.

Thai Y Hotel Hue, No 10 Pham Van Dong, ☎ +84 054.3897373. Thai Y Hotel is a no star hotel, a little away from center of the city, but its accessible to city center. Its brand new, started in 2009, very clean, comfortable, has good wifi connection in-room, brand new bathroom fixtures, have a few quirks here and there but nothing unbearable. One of the young proprietor speaks decent English and friendly.US$17-35.

Vina Hotel Hue, 57/03 Nguyen Cong Tru St, ☎ 84 (54)625114. Hotel surrounded by trees. Rooms with river or city view. US$28-50.

Splurge

Ana Mandara Hue, An Hai village, Thuan An town, Phu Vang district (20 minutes form the city centre), ☎ (84) 054 398 3333 (sales@anamandarahue-resort, fax: (84) 054 397 1111). This location offers guests a taste of “real” Vietnam. With the neighboring fishing village and lagoon one side and 400m of private beach the other.It also provides romantic dinner on the beach and luxury spa with natural product . From US$150.

La Residence, 5 D Le Loi (Walking distance from the train station), ☎ (84) 054 837 475. Renovated and restored 4 years ago, it tries to bring to life the French colonial era of the 1920’s. It has the largest swimming pool and spa in Hue, and the general manager are British and the head chef is the high profile Vietnamese chef . From US$136.

Saigon Morin, 30 Le Loi Street. Hue’s grand old hotel, opened by a Mr. Morin from France and running strong for over a hundred years. Excellent riverside location, white-washed colonial charm and a pleasant inner courtyard, although the rooms could use a little fine-tuning. From US$100.

Stay safe

Hue is a safe city, and there is not much to worry about. However, at night all cyclo-drivers, especially in Pham Ngu Lao area, should be avoided. There are recent cases in which travellers have been mugged, beaten and robbed by these people. During the day a ride should be fine, but at night, especially when they say its free or “up to you” avoid them at all costs.

Be suspicious of locals asking where you are from and then claiming to have family living there. The scam goes something like this. They will ask you to sit down for lunch/dinner with them and talk. After eating they will offer to pay for the meal and just ask that you buy them a local bottle of wine to drink at their temple. When you arrive at the local store the shop owner will say the wine is 7,000 dong and then when you attempt to pay she will say 700,000.

How to get out

Hue travel agents are keen to sell day-tours of the former Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), which was supposed to be a buffer between North and South Vietnam, but which saw intense fighting. DMZ trips will include the famous Vinh Moc tunnels, where a few hundred people lived for two and a half years.

Surrounding Countryside You can be outside the city of Hue and into the jade green rice fields in just 10 minutes. Whether by car, motorbike or bicycle, there is much to see. (It’s a bit too far to go by foot). Different villages tend to specialize in different handicrafts, so you can visit one area to see noodle-making, another for incense, then move on to see bronze-crafting, or rice cultivation.

Hoi An – old merchant port 100km away (about 4 hours by road or train – though train, 67,000d, stops at Danang, will need to take local bus from there), with Da Nang, the Marble Mountains and China Beach as potential stops along the way.

Dong Hoi – about 3 hours north of Hue, sleepy seaside town to sit around in. Bus from Hue (March ’12): local bus: 80,000d / Sinh Cafe bus: 400,000d / Tourist buses: 300,000d.

Nam Dong district – great place for visiting Co Tu villages on the fringe of Bach Ma National Park

Beware booking buses with Moon Travel (Nguyen Tri Phuong), with promises of a bus dropping you off at your hotel in the destination city. They change buses, and then ultimately you end up at the bus station with no recourse.

Beware of booking tickets mediated through people at the bus and train station or at “Adin’s Café Booking Office” at the RR station. On arrival they ask you friendly how you like to continue your trip and then they want to make you believe to hurry as the train/bus is almost fully booked. Then they show you the “official” price list, which in fact it’s just for tourists at a much higher price as locals pay for the tickets. Send them away and compare the ticket prices at your hotel and with other booking offices instead.

There are also frequent bus services to Savannakhet and Vientiane in Laos. Buses leave at 06:00 and 18:00. There are 3 scheduled direct buses to Vientiane – 6:00 am, 9:30 am and 6:00 pm. The trip to Savannakhet takes about 12 hours and cost around US$12, to Vientiane about 14-18 hours depending how many stops bus makes and US$ 20-30. The vehicle can be anything between minibus, air-con bus to a local 30 years old bus. Usually buses packed with traders and their cargo that finding enough space would be a problem. You’ll probably have to change bus 3-4 times during the trip and toilets (aside from squatting in the jungle) are seldom available. Tickets can be bought in any booking office in the center of Hue.

VIP Bus to Savannakhet run by Lao state company leave 8.30 at southern bus station 5/week everyday except Sunday and Friday cost VND220,000 and From savannakhet to Hue departure 10.00 AM at Savannakhet bus station Mon-Friday 100,000kip(July, 2009)

Safety by Red Dragon Cruise on Bai Tu Long Bay

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Named and designed after an authentic Chinese junk, the original Red Dragon junk plied the rivers, seas and harbors of the Far East, from Singapore to northern China.

Our Red Dragon is complete with five deluxe cabins and designed to resonate with superior class and grandeur. Larger than The Prince and Princess it is still small enough to get up close to the natural wonders, pocket lagoons and small fishing communities of Halong and Bai Tu Long bays.

As soon as you board the Red Dragon, you will be surrounded by traditional handmade artisan woodwork. Whether you are relaxing in the comfort of your own cabin, lounging on the spacious sun deck, or dinning in the cozy restaurant, you will feel treated like royalty.

This masterpiece is a wonderful option for those who need a little more space for a small group cruise of up to 11 people.

Safety Notice

1. Particular individuals

For safety reasons, these below Guests are not recommended to cruise overnight in Halong Bay: People with disability, such as blindness, two hand amputee. People who are unable to walk on 2 m high stairwells People who have health problems, including people with sleepwalking syndrome, people who have Illusions, people with epilepsy, people who have got anxiety when being in a small place. People who are on medicines that need to be stored at a special temperature and without it their lives are in danger People who is older than 80 People who is more than 100kg weight People who is over 2 meters height

2. Poisonous plants and animals

During summer, especially May, June, July, before going to swim, Guests should ask the guide or captain for advice because it is when the poisonous jellyfish are most active

3. Emergency Storms: when storms come during the tour Guests should be calm and follow instructions of the captain and guide. Guests need to move to the highest open areas of the boats or clear space or dining areas When engines are heard operating at night when the boat is anchored Guests need to rush out of their cabins because a storm is possibly coming or there is a potential boat collision.

4. Safety Facilities Life vest in each cabin, at public area, life buoys, life raft that enough for guests and crew on board. Lighters and hammers for emergency case in each cabin. Fire alarm, fire extinguishers at different areas on board, following the standard guide and ready to use Diagram to exit in emergency case . Marine equipment: VHF radio, GPS plotting, walkie-talkie, Walter licking alarm system, water pump system, fire alarm system and fire extinguishers.

5. Onboard safety Brief introduction about the trip with itinerary, crews, activities and safety, weather information Activity warning: our guide will give short introduction and warning to visitors, depending on weather conditions and seasons features, we recommend you to listen carefully to this information. The speed canoe to transfer guest immediately to harbor in the short time regarding health safety.

Medical aid available on board Marine Search and Rescue team with essential skills and training, equipment to deal with emergency.

Red Dragon Cruise and Yen Duc Village tour

Posted by editor on 2:28 am in Blog | Comments Off on Red Dragon Cruise and Yen Duc Village tour

Yen Duc Village is about 60km to the west of Halong Bay on the way from & to Hanoi. Yen Duc Village is a typical Vietnamese agricultural village which is rich in culture and traditions, it is also granted with beautiful landscape. The village is surrounded by the historical mountains which are mirrored themselves in the Kinh Thay river. Also, similar to other typical traditional Vietnamese village in the North of Vietnam, Yen Duc Village has charming golden rice fields in the harvest time, a lot of lakes and ponds, colorful garden, especially the ranges of areca trees in the sunshine.

Yen Duc Village has many historical monuments and a famous ancient pagoda named Canh Huong which contains cultural and historical values dated back to Ly and Tran dynasty. Over the years, the stories are still alive together with each famous mountain, river and pieces of land here.

In the village, all the alley roads are very clean with unique stone walls, especially the local villagers are very friendly, honest and extremely hospitable.

Joining a trip to Yen Duc village is a great chance to visit the charming fields, a holy pagoda, a historical site and other relic sites while wandering narrow alleyways in the odorous fresh air and talking with hospitable local people. With a convenience graphic location, Yen Duc Village is an ideal tourist site with unique experience for the customers after Halong Bay.

Historical Monument

Throughout the history of Vietnam, the war went through and left many historical sites. From the forests, rivers, cities… to the villages, the historical evidence of a heroic nation have been stored. Yen Duc village like many other villages in Vietnam, has contributed to the history of country. In the village, Canh Mountain and “73” cave stand as the spirit of heroic battle against the invaders. “73” cave dates back to the heroic struggle of 73 guerrillas, who sacrificed all for the freedom of people. Vietnamese people love peace but are so strong in protecting country, fighting against any invader. In the trip to Yen Duc village, visitors will pass through Canh Mountain, see the historical “73” cave and listen to the villagers’ stories about village and people.

Located in the Canh Mountain, “73” cave is the symbol of the local people’s courage and heroic sacrifices over the years.

By 1950s, Yen Duc village was invaded by the colonial enemy. However, they had difficulty in the countryside because of guerrilla fighters. The enemy underestimated the effectiveness of the Vietnamese guerrilla fighters because they used relatively simple weapons compared to the more advanced weapons of the enemy.

Understanding that, they could not fight again the enemy with the simple weapons while the enemy tried to destroy most of the Vietminh strongholds in the village, therefore the guerrilla fighters and local people disappeared in to the cave to hide themselves. The superior enemy’s weapons were useless against the guerrilla fighters who could not see.

The enemy found that, the guerilla fighters relied on local villages for food, water and other miscellaneous supplies. So to defeat them, the enemy needed to take away village support for the guerillas, and convince the Vietnamese people not to assist the guerrillas. On another hand, the enemy forced the local villagers to chop down the trees, destroyed the houses, the pagodas for fencing the cave.

In 6 days, the guerillas fighters were lack of food, water and weapon, they had to suffer from many difficulties and become tired while the enemy never stopped shooting and bombing into the cave, but the guerrilla fighters constantly tried to fight against.

On the 7th day, impatiently, the enemy used wood, straw and gas to fire the cave from all the entrances in order to kill all the hidden guerillas fighters and villagers. Facing the death, the guerillas fighters and villagers still showed no fear. They tried to fight against and hand in hand to sing all the songs about Vietnamese revolution and country by their last breath.

All 106 guerillas fighters and villagers were died inside the cave. Then, the enemy got into the cave to pulled 73 bodies out and buried them in the same hole.

In order to honor the merits of the guerillas fighters and villagers, either a memorial monument and a grave were built here in 1980 to dedicate the heroic local people who died in the war.

Local Houses

From ancient times, building house is one of life’s three big important things: buying buffalo, getting married, building house. With the concept has a good resident has good career innovation, that means stable accommodation then career is concerned; that the reasons why everyone tries to get their own house as particular property. The rural architecture of Vietnam houses is always synonymous with the village culture.

All houses are including the main house, the side (the horizontal, kitchen), barn, yard, garden, pond and fence, wall surround, gates. The main house is usually divided to parts by odd numbers (1, 3 or 5 part) and often turns to the south because of catching the sun when it’s cold and cool in the summer.

Almost houses have semicircle or circle pond in front – follow the “Feng Shui” theory. The pond is not only a place to growing fishes, snails but also all the daily activities taken place such as washing clothes, washing vegetables, washing dishes……..

All houses have an ancestor altar. Ancestor worship beliefs – worshiping the deadth is very popular in Asia, especially in Southeast Asia nations and particularly in the Vietnamese and Chinese culture. For Vietnamese, it’s almost become a religion.

It is always a garden surrounded by areca row in front and banana at the behind; the house – the garden creating the village with its law as a unified community and life has existed for thousands of year’s history.

Unlike the Western, Asian in general, and people in rural villages of Vietnam in particular tend to live three even four generations in the same house.

In Vietnam village, you are very easily to find items being made from things which are extremely familiar with normal life, such as: Areca fan; Coconut cup…

Local Houses

From ancient times, building house is one of life’s three big important things: buying buffalo, getting married, building house. With the concept has a good resident has good career innovation, that means stable accommodation then career is concerned; that the reasons why everyone tries to get their own house as particular property. The rural architecture of Vietnam houses is always synonymous with the village culture.

All houses are including the main house, the side (the horizontal, kitchen), barn, yard, garden, pond and fence, wall surround, gates. The main house is usually divided to parts by odd numbers (1, 3 or 5 part) and often turns to the south because of catching the sun when it’s cold and cool in the summer.

Almost houses have semicircle or circle pond in front – follow the “Feng Shui” theory. The pond is not only a place to growing fishes, snails but also all the daily activities taken place such as washing clothes, washing vegetables, washing dishes……..

All houses have an ancestor altar. Ancestor worship beliefs – worshiping the death is very popular in Asia, especially in Southeast Asia nations and particularly in the Vietnamese and Chinese culture. For Vietnamese, it’s almost become a religion.

It is always a garden surrounded by areca row in front and banana at the behind; the house – the garden creating the village with its law as a unified community and life has existed for thousands of year’s history.

Unlike the Western, Asian in general, and people in rural villages of Vietnam in particular tend to live three even four generations in the same house.

In Vietnam village, you are very easily to find items being made from things which are extremely familiar with normal life, such as: Areca fan; Coconut cup…

Quan Ho singing

Quan Ho folk song formed quite long ago by Viet people (Kinh people) in 49 Quan Ho villages and some other neighboring villages belong to Bac Giang and Bac Ninh province now created.

Quan Ho singing is a Vietnamese folk music style characterized both by its antiphonal nature, with alternating groups of female and male singers issuing musical challenges and responses, and by the fact that most of the songs in the repertoire deal with topics of love and sentimentality experienced by young adults.

The Quan Ho singing style originated in what is now Bac Ninh Province and was first recorded in the 13th century, and has traditionally been associated with the spring festivals that follow the celebration of Tet (the Vietnamese New Year). Historically, the singing began on the evening before the festival, but today it is much more common for the singing to occur on the main day of the festival.

According to the tradition, only young people used to sing Quan Ho songs, as the major body of song texts centers on the subject of love and sentimental desire among young adults. Nowadays, many elderly singers participate in the singing as well in response to the Quan Ho movement initiated by the provincial government. Originally, Quan Ho singing were exchange songs between two mandarins’ families. Gradually, it spread out and became popular among the northern people. Groups were formed just for singing, and many marriages were formed at these get-together. After centuries, it became the most significant Vietnamese folk-song type.

In general, an initial “challenge phrase” from the known body of songs is sung by a pair of female singers, following which a pair of male singers will respond by selecting and singing a “matching phrase”, which must repeat the melody of the challenge phrase. Once they are finished, the order is reversed, and the men will issue their own challenge phrase with a different melody. While in the past the singing was unaccompanied, it is common today for the singers to be accompanied by instruments, whether traditional Vietnamese instruments or modern ones such as electric keyboards.

There are a huge number of Quan Ho singing melodies, with thousands of different songs having been recorded and written down in score form.

Comprehension about Vung Vieng fishing village

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Bai Tu Long and the Vung Vieng Fishing Village is off the beaten tourist track as it is not so near to the popular Cat Ba Island which has lodging, beaches and nearby caves where most of the large tour companies and boats operate.
There are about 50 families; the population is between 200 and 300 residents. This includes nearly 100 children.

These families have lived in this village for generations. The language is Vietnamese. The village is a “floating village.” There are no structures built on land. The village is very poor. Traditionally income for food and potable water (imported from the mainland) came solely from fishing. Now, there is some supplemental income from tourism also.

There are 4 fishing villages in the World Heritage site: Ba Hang, Cua Van, Vong Vieng and Cap La. Vong Vieng is the less touristy. After disembark the mother boat, you will be transfer by rowing boats, tender boats, or doing kayaking to enter Vong Vieng fishing village. After enter the village gate (see the picture), you  have a chance to experience the villagers’ daily life as well as the traditional culture and customs of the fishermen, who live in the World Heritage Area of Halong Bay.

Their floating houses look spacious and clean. The well-off families even have tiled roof houses with radios, television sets, tables and chairs, etc. There is one community house here where villagers come to have meetings. Here is also the place tourists stopover to shop some traditional hand made items.

With the support of the tourists and travel companies like Indochina Junk, First Choice, the village boasts a training establishment for their children. Over an area of 100m2 lies one classroom and one small room for teachers.

It is interesting to see the rambunctious children going to “school”. Their bustling calling and their flopping rowing liven up the atmosphere of the quite bay. Looking at the small boats driven by tiny oars going to school, and the radiant faces of the children, one feels confident in a bright future for the fishing village. Tourist can drop some notebooks, pens to the village children.

the trip much more memorable.

How to travel on Bai Tu Long Bay

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The area immediately northeast of Halong Bav is known as Bai Tu Long Bay. With long and smooth sand banks and clear water waves, Bai Tu Long Bay is associated with the graceful and sweet beauty of a teen-aged girl.

The bay also attracts a growing number of domestic and foreign visitors to its historical and cultural sites, rare and precious specialties, and the archipelago’s unspoiled beauty.

There is a legend about the archipelago that in the old days when the Vietnam was attacked by foreign invaders, the God sent a mother dragon and its babies to support the Vietnamese people. The dragons immediately blew out myriad pearls and gems that turned into grand rock mountains as a solid citadel to protect the Vietnam. After the foreign invaders were pushed away, the mother dragon and its babies did not return to the heaven but stayed in the lower world. The land where the mother dragon landed was then called Ha Long, and where the baby dragons landed called Bai Tu Long. The area where the dragon tails lashed was called Long Vi, nowadays Tra Co Peninsula, which consists of many long and smooth sand banks.

There are hundreds of islets rising from the water and many quirkily shaped rock mountains on Bai Tu Long Bay’s site. Touring Bai Tu Long Bay, a day is not enough for visitors to discover these mysterious islets. Bai Tu Long National Park can also bring great surprises, and is one of the most desirable stopovers for visitors making a trip to Bai Tu Long Bay.

The Bai Tu Long National Park was formerly the 20km long and 1.5km wide Ba Mun Island. That island is part of Van Don District, some 60km away from Bai Chay Beach. The long island serves as a solid breakwater, preserving peaceful life for the whole region. The island is in fact a thick primitive forest consisting of two vegetation layers. The primeval layer consists of rare and precious woods like ironwood, teakwood, and canary-wood, while the second layer includes valuable herbs like araliaceous bark and rhubarb plant.

The Ba Mun primitive forest is the habitat of a variety of fauna. Spotted deer with their smooth fur are the most famous species. After showers when the weather turns fine, spotted deer often go to the forest edge to pick fresh buds that were washed by rainwater. The view from afar is excellent.

Visitors can reach the Bai Tu Long National Park by road from Bai Chay Beach or more romantically by speedboat. After tours, visitors can relax at stilt-houses near the water offering a wide range of food and drink.

Visitors can also call on a fishing village at Minh Chau Island or drop in on Cai Lang, the oldest village in the island with its clear-water Nang Tien (Fairy) Well. People once said that the girls’ hair would grow longer and blacker if they used water from the well to wash it.

Taking advantage of Bai Tu Long Bay’s attractions, many domestic travel companies both at home and abroad offer tours to the site. One of the best-selling tours brings visitors to the Bai Tu Long National Park, a fishing village at Minh Chau Island, Cai Lang, Thong Thien Cave, Phat Co Island, and finally returns to the shore to call at Cua Ong Temple and Van Hoa Port. Visitors can also go through thick forests to reach the habitat of ethnic minority groups (Dao Do, Tay, and San Diu minorities) and enjoy authentic local dishes.

Bai Tu Long Bay is every bit as beautiful as its famous neighbour. Indeed, in some ways it’s more beautiful, since it has scarcely seen any tourist development. This has its positives and negatives. The bay is unpolluted and undeveloped, but there’s little tourism infrastructure. It’s pretty hard travelling around and staying here, and unless you speak Vietnamese, it’s difficult to get information.

Charter boats can be arranged to Bai Tu Long Bay from Halong Bay; a boat suitable for 20 passengers costs US$10 per hour and the one-way journey takes about five hours. A cheaper alternative is to travel overland to Cua Ong pier, catch a public ferry to Van Don Island and visit the remote outlying islands by boat from Cai Rong pier.

Things to know about Cat Ba Island

Posted by editor on 2:56 am in Blog | Comments Off on Things to know about Cat Ba Island

Introduction

Cat Ba is the largest island in the Bay and approximately half of its area is covered by a National Park, which is home to the highly endangered Cat Ba langur. This golden-headed langur is rarely seen, as fewer than 100 specimens are thought to survive in the wild, although it is the subject of a well-organised conservation programme. The Park covers both land and marine areas and has a high biodiversity, although it is at risk from too rapid an increase in tourism. Other mammals in the Park include civet cats and oriental giant squirrels.

How to get there

The vast majority of people take a pre-booked tour from Hanoi on a tourist boat, though this is probably the slowest, least flexible and a relatively expensive way to visit Cat Ba and should be avoided at all costs unless you specifically want to be locked on a tourist boat for five hours while being given the hard sell and overcharged for the most minimal of refreshments.

It’s cheaper and more flexible to come either on a non tourist boat at Halong City or via Haiphong. If coming from Hanoi, you can also take a direct, combined bus/boat trip from Luong Yen Bus Station at 5:20, 7:20, 11:20 and 13:20 which takes 4.5 hours (compare: 5 hours for a slow tourist boat just to get from Halong City to Cat Ba’s northern port!) and costs 190,000 – 240,000 VND (US$9-$12) depending on season.

From Haiphong: there is a speed boat doing the trip several time a day (the last one around 16:00) from Phà Binh harbour. It costs 150,000 VND (May, 2012). Not more! The price is written on the ticket but some people sell false tickets with written 180,000 and they say the price was 150,000 last year or last month! If the boat arrive in Phù Long, they can also say that 180,000 include the bus from Phù Long to Cat Ba… but it’s also included in the 150,000 VND ticket: boat and bus can’t be divided… it’s the same company.

How to get around

Motorbike

You can easily rent a motorbike from any hotel for $5 (standard) per day or less if you look around or visit in the low season.
Don’t pay more than 50,000 dong for a 1.5L bottle of petrol, which can be bought in some of the small towns as well as near the port area near the end of the town. Anyone you hire a bike from should give you a photocopied map of the island which will help you with planning.

Bus

Local buses across the island leave from the western edge of Cat Ba town, on the water near the market intersection.

Cycle

There are half a dozen places to rent bikes including tandems. A ride to the other side of the island for a view into Ha Long bay and then back along the coastal road is around 45km. It’s worth getting a bike with gears as there are a few hills.

What to see

National Park, Eastern part of the island (Enter eastward on the main north/south road). The domain of the endangered Cat Ba Langur, of which there are supposed to be only around 100 left. Things on offer include a walk to a peak viewing tower (1.5-2 hours round trip; slippery and muddy if it’s rained recently), a frog pond (probably better in the off (wet) season), a short nature walk near the frog pond, more stuff which you can probably find online… 15,000VND entry, various guided tours.

Caves. There are a lot of caves around the island, though none of them are particularly impressive. Some cost money and may have optional guides. You can find them using the map or signs on the island. You have to walk through some forest to some of them. Beaches, Southwest side of the island (Accessible from the road). Don’t expect surfable waves, though! Free.

Monkey Island. Several boats run day trips to nearby monkey island either in isolation or as part of a larger tour. The island apparently has monkeys, but only a few around the accommodation were in evidence. Be aware that these animals are used to getting their food from either the guests or the bins, and therefore are not afraid of humans, so they might cause a problem. There is some accommodation on the island, that is Monkey Island Resort which consists of eight small bungalows and 20 spacious deluxe bungalows, but cosy, bamboo huts just behind a secluded beach. The food was nice, the drinks cheap, and the scenery was spectacular. There’s some kayaking available, and a trail for hiking to the top of the mountain where you can take so beautiful picture of Lan Ha bay. Nearby is the public beach, destination of lot Cat Ba island trips. It is probably the most beautiful junkyard in region. You can see monkeys searching food in enourmous quantity of garbage, nobody takes care. Better to avoid to visit. approx US$40 per night.

 Ha Long Bay, Bai Tu Long Bay. Organise 2 or 3 day trips into Ha Long and Bai Tu Long Bay for kayaking, caving, swimming and diving. Prices ~$45 per person for 2 day / 1 night trip (assuming 4 people in group). Cook Bien spoke basic english and cooked delicious food, Captain Phi friendly and offered us rice wine, and night spent in quiet part of bay was magic.

Hospital Cave, (Off Ha Sen Road, 10km from town). A 17 room underground hospital and hideout which was in use until 1975. It’s a real life James Bond underground lair. Get tickets from the café on opposite side of road. 15,000.

Cannon Fort, (2km north of town). Built in 1942 as a naval defence. Incredible views of Lan Ha Bay. 50,000.

What to do

Foot massage. Enjoy a half hour foot massage. There are several places that offer this service along Cat Ba town waterfront. US$3.

Take a walk around the market at the northwestern edge of town. The seafood section should give you a reasonable idea of the less exotic, locally consumed varieties of seafood caught locally.

Rock Climbing if seeing the beautiful limestone karsts isn’t enough for you, try scaling them. Slo Pony /Asia outdoors located on the 2nd floor of Noble House is a good place for more information. They run full and half day trips with combinations of kayaking, climbing and cruising the less touristy karsts.

Boat Tour with Jim at the Le Pont hotel. He does boat tours through the islands and some kayaking through neat coves. $25 per person if 4 or more.

Lan Ha bay, Hai Phong city (South of Halong bay). Lan Ha bay is a unique and beautiful area comprised of hundreds of islands. There are a lot of small beaches and floating villages for example Van Gia floating village, Monkey Island beach, Viet Hai fishing village, Van Boi beach.

Shopping

The market is the best place to buy most things. Tourist trinkets such as shell sculptures are sold at stalls on the easterly edge of the waterfront.

Where to eat

The Noble House It’s best the place to eat in Cat Ba Island, with that beautiful view on Cat Ba bay, you will can enjoy your meal while watching the sunset. A little gem of a restaurant… with cooking consistently good and the young staff, attractive and efficient, that local or western food you will find always the way to amaze your taste buds.

The market slightly down the Haiphong-bound road to the west of town offers some sizeable sit-down places in the rear corner that are popular with locals. It also has a great selection of tropical fruits for low prices.
Noodle vendors offer fried or pho (soup-style) noodles and fried rice for low prices (typically 20-40,000 dong) along the waterfront and across the island.
Seafood restaurants either in the bay (floating) or on the land offer a variety of seafood, with clams starting at around 80,000 dong per kilo.

Green Mango on the waterfront towards the eastern edge of town has the broadest selection of international cuisine on the island, including Indian, Italian, Thai, and Vietnamese. It’s not fine dining, but it approaches the mark without pushing up prices too far. A good bet if you want a break from Vietnamese food.

Mr. Zoom hotel and restaurant (Cat Ba island), 25 1/4nui ngoc street. Mostly good meals, but if he offers you an enormous (2kg) round-looking crab creature thing, save your $35.

Phuong Phuong Restaurant, 232, 1/4 street, cat ba town (near Nam Duong Hotel). The restaurant has views of the sea, serves Vietnamese food and Europen food.Airy space, at an affordable price. Be wary of very long wait.

Where to drink

There are a number of Sea View Bar establishments, much of a muchness.
Noble House offers 2 for 1 cocktails and free pool.

The Flightless Bird is the original bar on the island, run by a New Zealander and going strong for 15 years. The drinks menu includes reasonably priced imported bottles of wine from various parts of the world as well as a straight to the point cheap drinks section. Darts upstairs.

Rose Bar, (50m up the street behind Noble House). Awesome drink menu, most cocktails 40,000. Brand new with nice atmosphere, and a really helpful, friendly young owner. Best cocktail prices in town, if you’re sick of drinking beer all the time. Open until 3:00 AM, rare in Cat Ba.

Mr. Zoom hotel and restaurant (Cat Ba island), 25 1/4 nui ngoc street. Good meals for a cheap price.  edit
Phuong Phuong Restaurant, 232, 1/4 street, cat ba town. sea view, served Vietnamese food and western food. Especialy, springroll is very good.

Where to stay

There are loads of hotels along the waterfront with little to distinguish them, though a couple have elevators if you are less mobile or are traveling with elders. A few hotels have more recently sprang up down side streets away from the water, these should be cheaper. When looking at rooms, you may pay more for a water view. Free wifi is standard. Avoid anywhere that tries to “include” breakfast, which costs almost nothing and is probably of questionable quality anyway. Similarly, avoid anywhere that prices in dollars; ask for the price in dong. Decent conversion (February 2012) is 20,000 dong to a quoted dollar rate. In off season, everywhere is empty so will compete heavily on price; a huge room for two cost 125,000 ($6) on the water (February 2012).

Sunflower One Hotel, Nui Ngoc St (central, just around the corner from the waterfront). Three star hotel, many rooms have sea views. It is often used with Ha Long Bay boat tours when an overnight stay is requested on Cat Ba island. It is a quality hotel with good food. It has wifi in rooms but can be somewhat unreliable. Its sister hotel Sunflower Two, which is often used with cheaper Ha Long Bay tours, is about 1km inland on the same road, and is not as nice.

Song Chanh, 178 Duong 1-4. A great value hotel along the main strip in Cat Ba town. Very friendly staff who can also organise onward travel or tours around the island. Ask for Mr. Thuy, and go on the National Park trek with his uncle. double and twin rooms, low season $10/rm, high season $15/rm.

Hotel Phu Thanh, So 176 Duong 1/4. New hotel only opened in 2009 with really nice, large, clean rooms. Has free wifi included and satellite flat screen TV. Good showers with hot water that actually have pressure. They also serve some great food in the restaurant during the busier summer months. Friendly staff and family owned and run. Rooms start at $10.

Ngoc Hoa Hotel and Restaurant, 211 Duong (200m to the left of the dock). checkout: 12. Rooms facing the Bay, close to the ferry. Free wifi. Elevator. Fridge and aircon included. Family restaurant downstairs. Tours and scooters available at good prices if you ask, but the staff is not pushy. Their restaurant serves good simple Vietnamese food, soups, noodles, rice. Strong coffee and fruit smoothies. Big beer for under a dollar. 10-15$.  edit

Le Pont Hotel, 62-64 Nui Ngoc St. Dormitory $3.5 per person, rooms $4.5 per person, minimum two persons (April 2012).
Mr. Zoom hotel and restaurant (Cat Ba island), 25 1/4 nui ngoc steet. Rooms are nice, clean and cheap.  edit

Monkey Island Resort (Monkey Island – Cat Ba islands), Monkey Island beach. This resort is ideally located at Monkey Island beach in Lan Ha bay. It is about 10 minutes going by boat from Beo harbour in Cat Ba town. There are 29 room included 8 standard bungalows, 6 gardenview bungalows, 6 deluxe seaview bungalows and 8 comfortable suite seaview bungalows. There are spacious restaurant, game center for playing biliard, pingpong, table football, there are internet and wifi internet too. Kayaking, hiking mountain and playing games here are free.

Ngoc Khanh Hotel, ngoc nui (west). Cheapest in Cat Ba! super clean, nice double rooms for as little as 100.000 dong. Big comfy beds with soft matress, nice bathroom with hot water, excellent wifi signal in the rooms, satellite tv, balcony, free pool table downstairs, cheap beers, honest and helpful staff, laundry service. 5 U$D.

How to get out

To Hanoi, the easiest way to leave Cat Ba is through a booked Bus+Boat+Bus ticket. You can find these on the main beach road by the docks. Hoang Long sells combined tickets daily for 220,000, while some other companies are slightly cheaper. Takes about 6 hours.

Leaving town, boats and buses to Haiphong (150,000 dong; almost hourly from 6AM) and Halong City are available from the square on the waterfront near the boat pier. Hotels can book tickets for you at a slight premium.

From Tuan Chau harbor to Halong City : 150,000 VND (May, 2012). From Ben Beo harbor to Halong City : 170,000 VND – 3hours – wonderful (May, 2012). You can then go back to Hanoi by bus for 100,000 VND (May, 2012)